Cat Behavior Archives - Lost Pet Research and Recovery

Cat Feeding Station Best Practices to Avoid Coyotes

Danielle Robertson — Tue, 18 Apr 2023 18:46:31 +0000

Cat feeding stations are commonly used to feed feral cat colonies and outdoor/barn cats. They are also frequently used to help locate a missing cat. When searching for a lost cat, the feeding station is often set up with a surveillance camera to verify that the cat is present before setting a humane trap.

There is a lot of disagreement around the use of cat feeding stations since they can attract other wildlife including predators that may harm cats. In particular, coyotes are a potential threat to cats in most areas of the US. Some pet detectives will never or rarely use a feeding station due to the potential risks involved. However, there are also potential risks to not providing food if the cat cannot be found and caught quickly.

Coyote visits cat feeding station

When used for feral cats, most Trap-Neuter-Return (TNR) sites recommend feeding the cats once a day at a set time, and only leaving the food out for 30 minutes. Any remaining food and bowls should be picked up to avoid attracting any wildlife. Unfortunately, this is not practical when using a feeding station for a lost cat. Many lost cats only come out at night and generally avoid human activity. It often takes several days and sometimes a week or longer of setting a feeding station before the lost cat appears on camera.

What can be done to reduce coyote activity around a cat feeding station? If you are in a hurry for the answer, skip to "what we can learn from this study."

Table of Contents

What We Can Learn from Published Research Studies on Feral Cat Feeding Stations

Study Methods

Study Results

What we can learn from this study

Study Limitations

Using Elevated Platforms for Cat Feeding Stations

Other Potential Methods to Protect Cats from Coyotes at a Feeding Station

Use of Coyote Deterrents

Reduce Coyote Access to the Food

Provide Escape Routes or Secure Shelter for the Cat

Future Research

Literature Researched

What We Can Learn from Published Research Studies on Feral Cat Feeding Stations

I was only able to locate a single study on coyotes and cat feeding stations: Confluence and Implications of Cats, Coyotes, and Other Mesopredators at a Feral Cat Feeding Station (Mitchell et al. 2022).

Study Methods

This study focused on a single TNR cat colony in Rhode Island, US. Over the course of two years, three different feeding methods were employed. Visits of cats, coyotes, raccoons, and skunks were measured at the feeding station using a wildlife camera.

Method A: Large quantities of food at ground level. Between 3-5 lbs of dry food was heaped in a large salad bowl or two "deli" trays. This method was also what was used prior to the start of the study.

Method B: Large quantities of food elevated. An on-demand gravity feeder was secured on top of a one-meter-high table. Animals had to climb or jump onto the table and then push open a flap at the bottom of the feeder storage bin to access the food. The feeder was never left empty.

Method C: Small quantities of food at ground level. Between 1.25-1.5 lbs of dry food was placed in a bowl on the ground.

In all cases, food was placed out on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays between 8:00 and 8:30am.

Study Results

The following animals visited the cat feeding station: cats (64% of visits), raccoons (22%), coyotes (9%), and skunks (5%). Blue jays, turkeys, mice, squirrels, grey fox, red fox, and opossums were also present but were not measured.

Boxplot from "Confluence and Implications of Cats, Coyotes and Other Mesopredators at a Feral Cat Feeding Station" (Mitchell et al. 2022)

Overall, cats visited the feeding stations less when coyotes, raccoons and skunks were present. The most cats and fewest coyotes visited when large amounts of food were placed on an elevated platform.

Method A: When large amounts of food were placed on the ground, cats visited mostly during the day. Coyotes, raccoons and skunks primarily visited at night. During this time, 30% of the feral cats disappeared from the feeding station.

Method B: When large amounts of food were placed on an elevated feeding station, more cats visited at night. Raccoons also ate from the feeding station. Coyotes and skunks were not recorded.

Method C: When small amounts of food were placed on the ground, cats visited throughout the day and night. Cat activity was highest when the food was put out in the morning. Coyote and raccoon visits were minimal at night, and no skunks appeared. The food was generally gone before night.

What we can learn from this study

Based on this study, an elevated feeding platform works best if you want to maximize cat activity at the feeding station while minimizing coyote activity. This also allows you to more safely provide a large quantity of food. With more food present, some food will be available at all hours. This increases the chances of getting all cats in the area (and hopefully the lost cat) to make an appearance at the feeding station.

The second best option was only providing small amounts of food on the ground during the day. This may also reduce coyote activity at the feeding station unless you live in an area where coyotes are frequently active during the day. However, if this method were used for a lost cat, the food could easily be gone well before the cat shows up (usually in the middle of the night).

Another interesting finding of this study was how long it took before all cats in the area showed up on camera. With large quantities of food, it took 3-5 days to get an accurate estimate of the number of cats in the area. In contrast, with small amounts of food, it took 8-11 days. This is something to take into consideration when you determine how long to leave up a feeding station before concluding that the lost cat is not present.

Study Limitations

Unfortunately, this seems to be the only study on cat feeding stations and interactions with wildlife (at this time). The study was conducted on a single feeding station in Rhode Island in a suburban area. Since coyote activity is highly variable throughout the country, this study really needs to be replicated in other areas. In areas with significant daytime coyote activity, the results might differ.

During the study 40% (8/20) of cats disappeared and most occurred during Method A when large amounts of food were on the ground. During this time coyote visits were highest (14% of visits). The researchers conclude that the missing cats were killed by coyotes, but they never found any cat remains. It certainly is possible that the cats were killed by coyotes, but it is also quite possible that they left for other reasons.

Using Elevated Platforms for Cat Feeding Stations

The elevated cat feeding station used in the this study was described as "an
“on-demand” gravity feeder secured on top of a one-meter-high table... Animals had to climb or jump on the table and push open a flap at the bottom of the feeder’s storage bin to access dry food. Feeders could hold up to 3.2 kg (7 lb) of food; the feeder was never left empty" (Mitchell et al. 2022). I reached out to the authors to try and get a photo or illustration of the elevated feeding station, but I never heard back.

For those interested in using an elevated platform, I found the following resources. These include designs that will limit raccoons, opossums, skunks, and coyotes. In general, minimal elevation (even 1-2 feet) will usually exclude skunks. On the other hand, raccoons can climb just about anything, but they aren't great jumpers.

A minimally elevated cat feeding station may exclude skunks but not other wildlife.

The Ark Workshop offers a variety of cat feeding stations for sale.
For a more permanent structure, here are the building instructions for a raccoon proof feeder courtesy of Shawdowcats.net.

When setting up a feeding station for a lost cat, you probably want something more portable. I sometimes just use a folding table with a box on top to protect the food from the weather. With a large enough table, a trap can also be set up if needed. This set-up works to keep skunks out, but usually not raccoons or opossums. I haven't yet had a coyote show up at an elevated feeding station, so I can't say from personal experience how well this works to exclude coyotes. If anyone else would like to share their elevated feeding station designs, please email photos to info@lostpetresearch.com.

Cat feeding station on a folding table. This will avoid skunks but likely not raccoons or opossums.

One concern that I sometimes have with elevated cat feeding stations is whether it might also exclude some cats. In my experience, not all cats are great jumpers and some cats, in particular old or overweight cats, might have difficulty reaching the platform.

Other Potential Methods to Protect Cats from Coyotes at a Feeding Station

Below are some additional suggestions, but most have minimal to no research that I am aware of. However, I am planning to do additional journal research on these topics.

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Use of Coyote Deterrents

There are a lot of coyote deterrents on the market. Unfortunately, many things that will scare a coyote, like loud noises, flashing lights or spraying water, are also likely to scare off a lost cat. The methods listed below are some of the less intrusive coyote deterrents, but it is still possible that they would scare away a cat.

Wolf Urine

Some researchers have found that wolf urine works to discourage coyote activity even in areas where wolves are not present (Wauson and Rogers 2021). In order to be effective, the urine must be applied in a perimeter and reapplied frequently. This study used dispensers that needed to be re-filled every nine days (despite the online instructions stating every 33 days). They also recommend applying the urine high enough to simulate a large wolf. The Predator Pee Store also promotes wolf urine as a feral cat repellent, but I haven't found any research to support its effectiveness.

Predator Deterrent Lights

Nite Guard and Predator Guard are among companies selling predator deterrent lights. These products have one or two small red lights that flash and supposedly simulate the eyes of a larger predator. I haven't yet found any studies to support whether they work or not. There is also the question of whether these would scare a cat if they actually work.

No products found.

Fladry

Fladry consists of a line of brightly colored flags hung along a fence or perimeter. The flags moving in the wind are supposed to scare wolves and other predators from entering livestock pastures. There is some evidence that this works for wolves (at least for a month or two), but at least one study found that it did not work for coyotes (Davidson-Nelson and Gehring 2010). As with other tools, there is some concern that fladry might scare a lost cat as well.

Reduce Coyote Access to the Food

If the coyotes cannot access the cat food, they are less likely to continue visiting the feeding station. This is what this research study found when they put the cat food on an elevated platform. Theoretically, this would also work if the food was made inaccessible in other ways such as placed inside or under something where coyotes could not fit.

Provide Escape Routes or Secure Shelter for the Cat

Alternatively, the food could be placed on the ground, but near suitable escape routes or secure shelter for the cat. This could be near a shed or deck that a cat could hide underneath, but a coyote would not fit. If no natural escape routes are present, one site recommends using 12 inch x 6 foot PVC pipes. These need to be secured in place so they won't roll. The cat may need to be encouraged to investigate the pipe with treats or they might not use it in an emergency.

If you are making more of a long-term feeding station, you might consider building a cat house as an escape shelter and/or for secure sleeping. This should have a door that is just big enough for the cat and a coyote can't enter or get their head inside. For my feral cat shelter I placed a large cinderblock at the entrance to create a secure hallway. (There are no coyotes in my yard, but my feral cat frequently uses the shelter to escape my puppy.) The Feralvilla provides a safe design that has a ground floor entrance and then a second floor sleeping area.

Feral cat house with cinderblock door for protection from dogs and coyotes.

Providing the cat with something to climb is another option. However, I've seen a number of Youtube videos where cats attempting to climb were pulled down by coyotes. In general it seems like cats are not able to climb quickly enough.

These methods seem less than ideal, since the coyotes are likely to continue to visit the feeding station if food is readily available.

Future Research

Clearly more research is needed on this topic. If you use one of these methods or an alternative method to reduce coyote activity around cat feeding stations, please describe it in the comments or email photos to info@lostpetresearch.com. Future research projects will be posted at LostPetResearch.org.

Literature Researched

Davidson-Nelson, S.J. and T.M. Gehring. 2010. Testing Fladry as a Nonlethal Management Tool for Wolves and Coyotes in Michigan. Human-Wildlife Interactions: 4(1): Article 11.

Mitchell, N.C., M.W. Strohbach, M.N. Sorlien, and S.N. Marshall. 2022. Confluence and Implications of Cats, Coyotes, and Other Mesopredators at a Feral Cat Feeding Station. Society & Animals 30: 721-741.

Wauson, M, and W. Rogers. 2021. A test of gray wolf urine to reduce coyote depredation rates on loggerhead sea turtle nests. Journal for Nature Conservation 63: article 126050. Read a full copy of the thesis here.

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Security Cameras: one of the best tools for finding escaped indoor cats

Danielle Robertson — Sun, 20 Nov 2022 21:10:22 +0000

Some of the most effective methods for finding an escaped indoor cat include: security cameras, trail cameras, humane cat traps, physical searches, search dogs, flyers distributed door-to-door and well-designed posters. I recommend using all these techniques, but if I could only use one tool, I would use security cameras.

Continue reading to learn:

Why security cameras are so effective for finding escaped indoor cats
My favorite cameras and those used by other pet detectives
Tips for setting up security cameras to maximize the chances of getting your cat on camera
How to catch your cat after getting them on camera

Table of Contents

Why Security Cameras are so Effective

Selecting a Security Camera

My Favorite Security Cameras

Tips on Using Security Cameras

Example of Effective Camera Set Up

How to Catch your Cat with a Camera

Why Security Cameras are so Effective

Many escaped indoor cats will return home but they rarely meow at the door or wait to be found
Returning home is most common in the middle of the night
Any human activity outside can easily scare the lost cat away
Some cats return home soon but others take days to weeks to first appear

When an indoor cat escapes outside they often enter "Survival Mode" where they hide in silence (even when they hear family members calling for them) and often only come out at night. This behavior can make it seem like they have vanished and zero sightings for a week or longer are not uncommon. Sadly many people give up assuming that their cat is no longer around. However, if you use effective search methods, the recovery rate for lost indoor cats is high (60-80%).

Escaped indoor cats will often try to return home, but usually in the middle of the night. My past research showed that 30% of indoor cats attempted to return home, but with the increased use of security cameras, I now suspect that number is closer to 50% or higher.

Some cats attempt to return home as early as the first night, but nights 4 - 7 are most common. Other cats may take as long as 10 days to 2 weeks to first show up. And some cats are still around and attempting to return home months later. For this reason, I recommend putting up security cameras as soon as possible and keeping them up for at least two months.

Unfortunately, any human activity outside can prevent the lost cat from coming home or scare them away. Many people unwittingly sabotage finding their lost cat by searching outside all night long often night after night. Since most indoor cats are in Survival Mode, a security camera combined with a "House Trap" or humane cat trap is most effective.

Selecting a Security Camera

I recommend getting outdoor cameras that are infrared, water resistant, and motion activated. Wireless wifi cameras are often easiest to set up, but only work within your wifi range. Cellular security cameras are another option, but are more expensive and require a monthly service plan. In either case, you want a camera that will record video and send motion notifications to your phone.

My Favorite Security Cameras

The Blink cameras are my favorite security cameras. I have used the Blink XT, XT2 and the Blink Outdoor. I have not yet bought their newest version Blink Outdoor 4. Blink cameras work with the Blink App, which will send a notification to your phone when any motion is detected. They also offer a live video feed on request.

Blink XT2 camera with twist mount for easy installation

In my lost pet recovery business I usually use at least 2 Blink cameras around the house. Then I use at least one trail camera (preferably cellular) to monitor the yard and/or for checking sightings away from home. For catching the lost cat, I usually use either a House Trap and/or humane cat trap.

The Blink Outdoor cameras are available on Amazon.com and Best Buy. I also really like these flexible twist mounts that allow easy installation in a variety of locations. If you are on a tight budget, the Wyze Cam v4 is another option. This camera is wired, but still weather resistant.

Blink Outdoor 4 – Wireless smart security camera, two-year battery life, 1080p...

Outdoor 4 is our most affordable wireless smart security camera yet, offering up to two-year battery...
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Two-year battery life — Set up in minutes and get up to two years of power with the included AA...

Last update on 2026-11-04 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Flexible Twist Mount for Blink Outdoor 4/Outdoor 2K+/3rd Gen, Weatherproof...

【Compatibility】 Our camera mounts are specially designed for Blink Outdoor 4 (4th Gen) & Outdoor...
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Last update on 2026-11-04 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

WYZE Cam v4, 2.5K Indoor/Outdoor Security Camera, Color Night Vision, White...

SMART 2.5K QHD RESOLUTION — CAPTURE EVERY DETAIL — Record in crystal-clear 2560×1440 video with...
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Last update on 2026-11-04 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Other security cameras preferred by some pet detectives include Arlo, Eufy, Nest, Ring and Reolink. Most are Wi-Fi only, but Arlo and Reolink also have cellular options.

Tips on Using Security Cameras

Security cameras work best when placed above and angled down. This way they are less likely to scare your cat when the camera comes on.
If monitoring an entrance, make sure that you can clearly see the steps and/or doorway. Some cats will sneak along the house to the entrance so you may miss them if the camera is facing too far outwards.
Place one camera near the point of escape. I recommend getting at least two cameras. Other good locations are the door most frequently used by everyone. This will have the most scent. Or a back door to a deck or porch. This is often a quieter location with less human activity.
Monitoring the garage door is another option. If left open a foot or so, many cats will enter the safety of the garage. This method works best with a humane trap in the garage or a door open into the house. I don't recommend closing the garage door as a trap unless you have professional assistance! This rarely works and your cat could be injured or killed.
Cameras can also be used to monitor a humane trap. Monitoring a humane trap makes trapping safer and increases your chances of successfully catching your cat.
Turn off all outdoor lights including motion activated lights. Most indoor cats prefer to travel in the dark.
Make sure that the camera is set to a high enough sensitivity that it will pick up a cat-sized animal. I find a sensitivity of 7 or higher works well on Blink cameras, but this may vary based on temperature and weather. I recommend testing yours once set up.
Security cameras are less likely to detect movement if it comes head on. Angle your camera across the entrance for the greatest chance of detection.

Example of Effective Camera Set Up

This Blink camera is attached below a security light using a flexible twist mount. The camera covers the sidewalk, stairs and landing to get the best chance of catching the escaped indoor cat on their return.

How to Catch your Cat with a Camera

Just knowing that your cat is around is great, but if you rush outside when you see your cat, you will likely scare them away. Some people have luck by slowly opening the door, sitting down and using calming signals to attract their cat.

However, many cats will run away as soon as the door is opened. Leaving the door open is often the most effective method to quickly catch an escaped indoor cat. Of course, don't do this unless it is safe to do so and you won't risk losing any other pets. This method is even more effective if you design a House Trap where you can close the door remotely after your cat has entered. If you do this, be sure to test the lag time on the video. You want to be 100% sure that your cat is far enough inside before attempting to close the door.

If you can't leave your door open, a humane cat trap or drop trap are your best options. Make sure that you learn how to safely and effectively use a humane cat trap. For additional help, check out the resources available in the Lost Pet Research Store.

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Coyotes are NOT More Dangerous During Breeding Season

Danielle Robertson — Tue, 04 Feb 2020 14:23:40 +0000

For a more in depth discussion, see "Do Coyote Attacks Increase During Mating Season."

Please help spread the truth that coyotes are not more dangerous during breeding season

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Share to Facebook or Twitter. You even have my permission to save and download a copy of the infographic. Just please link back to this page if you use it on your website.

Literature Researched

Frauenthal, VM, P Bergman, and RJ Murtaugh. 2017. Retrospective evaluation of coyote attacks in dogs: 154 cases (1997-2012). Journal of Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care 27(3): 333-341.

Gehrt, S and SPD Riley. 2010. “Coyotes (Canis Latrans)” in Urban Carnivores: Ecology, Conflict, and Conservation. Gehrt, Stanley, D., Seth P.D. Riley, and Brian L. Cypher, editors. The John Hopkins University Press.

Grubbs, S and PR Krausman. 2009. Observations of Coyote-Cat Interactions. Journal of Wildlife Management 73(5): 683-685. See full notes here.

Lukasik, VM and SM Alexander. 2011. Human-Coyote Interactions in Calgary, Alberta. Human Dimensions in Wildlife 16: 114-127.

Poessel, SA, SW Breck, TL Teel, S Shwiff, KR Crooks, and L Angeloni. 2013. Patterns of Human-Coyote Conflicts in the Denver Metropolitan Area. Journal of Wildlife Management 77(2): 297-305.

White, LA and SD Gehrt. 2009. Coyote Attacks on Humans in the United States and Canada. Human Dimensions of Wildlife 14: 419-432.

The post Coyotes are NOT More Dangerous During Breeding Season appeared first on Lost Pet Research and Recovery.

Do Coyote Attacks Increase During Mating Season?

Danielle Robertson — Tue, 28 Jan 2020 16:49:27 +0000

It’s that time of year again, and the coyote mating meme is making the rounds on Facebook. But ARE coyote attacks on pets really more common during mating season? In case you are not familiar, the coyote mating meme states: “WARNING! The next 4-6 weeks is mating season for coyotes. Please do NOT let your dogs, or cats out alone. The outcome can be tragic as they can and will attack your pets. (Coyote breeding typically peaks in late February, and early March.) Male coyotes can become more aggressive during this time of year.” In this article, I’m going to review the existing scientific research and determine if it supports that coyotes are more dangerous during the mating season.

If you don't have time to read the full article, check out the infographic. Feel free to download and share to help spread the word.

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When is Coyote Mating Season?

The coyote mating meme generally states that coyote mating or breeding season lasts 4-6 weeks and peeks in late February to early March. Coyote researchers generally classify January through April as the mating season, May through August as pup rearing and September through December as dispersal. (Dispersal is when young coyotes leave the pack to find their own territory.) Coyote breeding season may vary by a month or so depending on the geographic location of the coyotes. For example in Massachusetts, mating season is late December to March. Researchers don't mention a "peak" to the breeding season. Most likely it varies each year depending on weather, prey abundance and other factors.

Why Coyote Attacks Might Increase During Mating Season

Coyote attacks on pets might increase during the mating season when coyotes are more territorial. However, male coyotes in particular are not more aggressive. All coyotes in a pack may defend their territory. Territorial attacks would hypothetically be more likely on medium to large dogs that coyotes saw as more of a threat.

Food can be harder to find during the winter. Coyote attacks might also increase if coyotes are traveling into urban/suburban areas looking for easier to obtain food. In this case, we could expect predatory attacks on small dogs and cats.

What Does the Research Show?

Overall, researchers found that seasonality was not a good predictor of coyote attacks. More studies found that coyote attacks increased during the pup rearing season rather than the breeding season. However, no reported results were statistically significant.

Figure 1: Percentage of Coyote Attacks by Season

Breeding Season = Jan - April, Pup Rearing Season = May - Aug, Dispersal = Sept - Dec

AB = Attacks on people or pets in Calgary, Alberta (Lukasik and Alexander 2011), CO = Attacks on people or pets in Denver, Colorado (Poessel et al. 2013), CA = Attacks on dogs in southern California (Frauenthal et al. 2017), AZ = Attacks on cats in Tucson, Arizona (Grubbs and Krausman 2009), US and CAN = Attacks on people in the US and Canada (White and Gehrt 2009)

Researchers Concluded that More Coyote Attacks Occur During ...

Mating Season

In Denver, CO, most coyote conflicts took place in December through February. Coyote attacks on pets were 1.5 times more likely during breeding season. (Poessel et al. 2013)

In Chicago, IL, most attacks on dogs took place in December through February (mating season) with another peak in April (when pups were born). Attacks on larger dogs usually involved two or more coyotes and mostly occurred during mating season. (Gehrt and Riley 2010).

Pup Rearing Season

In Calgary, Alberta, most coyote attacks on pets were during the pup rearing season and the least were during the breeding season. (Lukasik and Alexander 2011)

In southern CA, there were nearly twice as many attacks on dogs during July. Most dogs in this study (81%) were less than 22 lbs. (Frauenthal et al. 2017)

In Tucson, AZ, most attacks on cats were during the pup rearing season. (Grubbs and Krausman 2009)

In the US and Canada, most attacks on humans were during the pup rearing season. (White and Gehrt 2009)

However, no reported results were statistically significant.

Conclusion: Is the Coyote Mating Meme True?

The existing research does not support the coyote mating meme. Overall, seasonality was not a good predictor of coyote attacks. More research studies found that coyote attacks on pets increased during the pup rearing season (May-Aug) rather than the mating season (Jan-April).

Why Coyote Attacks Might Increase During Pup Rearing Season

More research studies found that coyote attacks on pets increased during the pup rearing season rather than the breeding season. Attacks on pets might increase during pup rearing due to the need for more food for the pups and coyotes protecting dens and/or pups. In this case, we would expect to see more predatory attacks on small dogs and cats. Attacks on medium to large dogs would be more likely where the dog approached a coyote den.

Why the Coyote Mating Meme May Have Been Created

Just seeing coyotes may increase the perception that there is increased danger. Several studies reported that sightings of coyotes were highest during mating season. In the winter, coyotes are often more visible, especially in areas with snow. Coyotes also tend to travel more extensively in winter. These increased sightings (and not increased attacks) may be the reason why the mating meme was created.

Figure 2: Percentage of Coyote Sightings by Season

Breeding Season = Jan - April, Pup Rearing Season = May - Aug, Dispersal = Sept - Dec

AB = Attacks on people or pets in Calgary, Alberta (Lukasik and Alexander 2011), CO = Attacks on people or pets in Denver, Colorado (Poessel et al. 2013)

Overall, Coyote Attacks are Relatively Rare

It is important to understand that coyote attacks or aggressive behavior are not common in most areas of the US or Canada. In Denver, only 12.7% of reports were described as conflicts, and in Calgary (Alberta), only 5% of reports involved aggression or attacks. In both studies, the vast majority of reported "incidents" were just sightings: 89% in Calgary, Alberta and 75% in Denver, Colorado.

Figure 3: Coyote Incident Reports in Alberta

Attacks on people or pets in Calgary, Alberta (Lukasik and Alexander 2011)

Figure 4: Coyote Incident Reports in Colorado

Attacks on people or pets in Denver, Colorado (Poessel et al. 2013)

As a species, coyotes pose a relatively low threat to human and pet safety, and conflict is likely limited to specific individuals in the population. Seasonality is less important than other factors (Lukasik and Alexander 2011). Coyotes that are more likely to pose a threat are sick or injured coyotes or those habituated to eating human food (e.g. garbage or pet food).

Keeping Pets Safe from Coyote Attacks

The results of these research studies provide some good tips for keeping pets safe from coyote attacks.

Don’t let small dogs outside alone even within a fenced yard. In southern California, 81% of attacks were on small dogs less than 22 lbs. Most (76%) of attacks took place while the dogs were off-leash in a backyard with a 6-10 foot fence.
Don’t let cats or small dogs outside alone at night. Obviously, the safest action is to never let your small dogs or cats outside, unsupervised. But if you do, avoid doing so from dusk until dawn. In California, 70% of attacks on dogs were between 7pm to 7am with the highest incidence between 9pm to 11pm. Similarly, in Arizona, the majority (78%) of attacks on cats were between 10pm and 5am.
Don’t let dogs run off-leash in the woods, especially during winter or spring. If your dog doesn’t stay close to you when off-leash, there is a greater danger that they could run into a pack of coyotes. During mating season, coyotes MIGHT be more territorial, and during pup rearing season, they MAY defend their den or pups.
Lastly, don’t leave out food or unsecured garbage, especially at night. Coyotes that regularly eat human food are more likely to have conflicts with humans or pets.

Where to learn more about coyote behavior

Keep in mind that in many areas, coyote attacks on pets are not nearly as common as people tend to assume. In particular, many cases of missing (and never found) cats are blamed on coyotes without any evidence. However, in some areas of North America, coyote attacks are more common. To learn more, check out these articles:

Some coyote behaviors are often misinterpreted as dangerous. Coyotes may stare at or follow people or pets, and this is not necessarily aggressive behavior. Another version of the coyote mating meme states that coyotes will lure dogs back to the pack to kill them. This is another myth. Check out this article to learn more.

Literature Cited and Research Study Summaries

Frauenthal, VM, P Bergman, and RJ Murtaugh. 2017. Retrospective evaluation of coyote attacks in dogs: 154 cases (1997-2012). Journal of Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care 27(3): 333-341.

Study conducted from 1997-2012 in southern California
154 dog attacks were witnessed
15.6% of dogs died or were euthanized due to injuries
Size of dogs attacked:
- 81% of dogs attacked were less than 22 lbs
- Average weight of dogs in the study was 13 lbs
Seasonality of attacks:
- Attacks occurred throughout the year
- Nearly 2x as many attacks in July (pup rearing season)
Time of attacks:
- 70.3% of attacks occurred from 7pm to 7am
- Most common time of attacks 9pm – 11pm
Location of attacks:
- 76.3% were off leash in the backyard
- Many yards had a 6-10-foot fence, which the coyote jumped over

Study in Chicago, Illinois, 1990-2004
Based on 70 newspaper articles of coyote attacks on dogs
60% of attacks were on small breed dogs
Coyote attacks on dogs peaked in December – February (mating season) and again in April (pup rearing season)
Attacks on larger dogs usually involved two or more coyotes and mostly occurred during mating season, when coyotes are most territorial
Attacks on small dogs were likely to occur at any time of the year

Grubbs, S and PR Krausman. 2009. Observations of Coyote-Cat Interactions. Journal of Wildlife Management 73(5): 683-685. See full notes here.

78% of coyote-cat interactions took place between 10pm - 5am
84% of cats were killed between 6pm - 5am
69% of attacks and 68% of cats killed were during pup rearing season (May-Aug)
8% of attacks and 16% of cats killed were during coyote breeding season (Jan-April)

Lukasik, VM and SM Alexander. 2011. Human-Coyote Interactions in Calgary, Alberta. Human Dimensions in Wildlife 16: 114-127.

Study conducted from 2005-2008 in Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Based on 1,684 incident reports
89% of reports were coyote sightings
5% of reports were aggression or attacks
Reported incidents may involve humans and/or pets
Seasonality of incidents:
- Most sightings were during the breeding season and least during pup rearing
- Most attacks were during the pup rearing season and least during the breeding season
Most often reported near a river and in central Calgary

Poessel, SA, SW Breck, TL Teel, S Shwiff, KR Crooks, and L Angeloni. 2013. Patterns of Human-Coyote Conflicts in the Denver Metropolitan Area. Journal of Wildlife Management 77(2): 297-305.

Study conducted from 2003-2010 in Denver, CO
Based on 4,006 incident reports to the government, mostly from citizens
87.3% were coyote observations and 12.7% were conflicts (e.g. aggression or attacks)
92.4% of conflicts were attacks on pets
2.5% of conflicts were attacks on humans and 46.1% of those also included a pet
76.1% were coyote attacks on dogs and 21.9% were on cats
Locations of attacks on pets:
- 45.8% near a house
- 20.2% in fenced yard
- 5.3% were dogs off leash
- 0.8% were dogs on leash
Seasonality of coyote conflicts and observations:
- Observations were 2x as common from December – March
- Conflicts were 1.5x more likely during December – February
Habitat type of conflicts:
- More common in development and open space land
- Less common in natural and agricultural areas
- More common in suburban areas
- Less common in rural and exurban areas
Hypotheses for increased attacks during winter:
- Coyotes frequent developed areas more often in winter in search of easier to obtain food
- Coyotes are more aggressive and territorial during breeding season
- During short winter days, people are more active, especially walking dogs, at dusk and dawn when coyotes are also more active

White, LA and SD Gehrt. 2009. Coyote Attacks on Humans in the United States and Canada. Human Dimensions of Wildlife 14: 419-432.

In the US and Canada, most attacks on humans were during the pup rearing season, but the results were not statistically significant.

The post Do Coyote Attacks Increase During Mating Season? appeared first on Lost Pet Research and Recovery.

Lost Pet Statistics

Danielle Robertson — Thu, 14 Mar 2019 16:10:19 +0000

Lost Pet Statistics Infographic by PurringPal

How Many Pets Go Missing?

If you have ever tried to research lost pet statistics, you have probably seen the statement that 1 in 3 pets (30%) will go missing in their lifetime. Most prominently, this statement appears on the homepage of the HomeAgain microchip company. Various other sites attribute this statement to the ASPCA or AHA but fail to provide an exact source. To date, I have been unable to find any actual research to back up the 1 in 3 pets will go missing statistic.

The only published research study on lost pet rates found that between 11-16% of dogs and 12 - 18% of cats are likely to go missing at least once in five years.

Weiss et al. 2012

The first research on lost pet statistics was conducted by the ASPCA in 2010 (Weiss et al. 2012). They surveyed pet owners and found that 14% of dogs and 15% of cats in the study went missing once in a five-year period. Since their study had a small sample size, they used statistics to calculate that in the US pet population, between 11-16% of dogs (1 in 6 to 9) and 12-18% of cats (1 in 5 to 8) will go missing in a five-year period. Unfortunately, they made no attempt to calculate or discuss how this lost pet statistic relates to the lifetime of the pet. If a dog or cat lives 10, 15 or 20 years, does the chance of them going missing increase or stay the same?

In reality, there are many variables that contribute to the likelihood of an individual pet going missing. At this point, there isn’t any published research on what characteristics increase the chances of a pet going missing. You might think that indoor-only cats are less likely to get lost than an outdoor-access cat, but the available research indicates that this may not be true. Lord et al. (2007a) found that 41% missing cats were indoor-only cats, and approximately half of survey participants in the Huang et al. (2018) study reported a missing indoor-only cat (unpublished data).

How Many Lost Cats Are Found?

If your cat goes missing, what are the chances that they will be found? You may have heard the lost pet statistic that only 1 to 5% of lost cats are found. This fortunately is NOT true and is a misinterpretation of return-to-owner (RTO) rates. RTO rates are the percentage of pets that are returned to their owners after they have been brought to a shelter. Sadly, very few cats ARE returned to their owners once they end up in a shelter. Various studies found RTO rates of 1.5 to 4.5% for cats. Likely reasons for this low RTO rate include:

Very few cats have ID tags
Microchips are often not registered or kept up-to-date
Owners tend to wait longer to check the shelter and don’t check them as often as for a lost dog
Many towns/cities have short or nonexistent minimum stray holds for cats
Animal Control in smaller towns may not pick up stray cats, so they end up taken to rescues or shelters farther from where they were found
Unless a cat is sick or injured, most people tend to assume a loose cat lives somewhere nearby and is not lost, so they are not reported or brought to a shelter
A cat may be missing for weeks or months before they are taken to a shelter

Research studies report that between 53-84% of lost cats are found (Table 1). The range in values is partly due to the potential bias of the different study methods. The least biased study is probably Weiss et al. (2012) which found that 75% of missing cats in the study were found and therefore statistically 63- 84% of lost cats in the US are found.

If you work with a lost pet tracker or pet detective, you may find that their recovery rates are lower then these. This is most likely because many people wait to contact a pet detective or tracker until after their cat has been missing for several days or a week or longer. In some cases, they have even been using search techniques that are detrimental to finding their lost cat. Many lost cats can be found without professional help, but make sure that you are using proven search methods and not just trying everything you can find on the internet.

One interesting lost pet statistic that has not be published is the difference in recovery rates between lost indoor-only cats versus outdoor-access cats. While both types of cats may be equally likely to go missing, indoor-only cats are much more likely to be found (Table 2). My case records show a similar trend with around 75% of lost indoor-only cats being found versus only 33% of lost outdoor-access cats. When an indoor-only cat goes missing, they are likely hiding in fear and are usually not too far from home. On the other hand, when an outdoor-access cat goes missing it usually means that something happened to prevent the cat from coming home. These cats may be trapped, injured and hiding or deceased nearby. Or they may be displaced and lost farther from home, which makes them much more difficult to find.

How Are Lost Cats Found?

Weiss et al. (2012) and Lord et al.( 2007a) both determined that most cats were found because they returned home on their own (45-72%). Weiss et al. (2012) also found that 30% (18-44%) were found in the neighborhood. Lord et al. (2007a) found that 11% of cats were found due to neighborhood signs, but they did not even ask specifically about doing a neighborhood search. All other search methods were less then 2%. See Table 4. Please understand, these results do NOT suggest that the best search method is just to wait until your cat comes home. All of these studies had relatively low recovery rates, and many cats were never found. What these studies strongly suggest is that most people don’t know how to effectively search for a missing cat and use ineffective methods.

I would recommend reading this blog article: Review of “Successful Search Methods Used to Locate Missing Cats and Likely Locations Where Missing Cats are Found." This study used a more complex method than simple percentages and looked at what search methods owners actually found useful in their search. In particular they found evidence that a physical search increased the likelihood of finding a missing cat alive (Huang et al. 2018).

How Many Lost Dogs are Found?

Lost dogs have a much higher recovery rate than lost cats. Research studies found that between 71- 97% of lost dogs were recovered (Table 3). Weiss et al. (2012) used statistics to estimate that between 86 to 97% of lost dogs in the US are found. Dogs also have higher return-to-owner (RTO) rates if they are brought to a shelter. RTO rates were between 10 to 30% (HSUS online).

More dogs are likely found at the shelter because:

Significantly more dogs have ID tags (48-89%) compared to cats
Owners tend to check the shelter sooner and check back more frequently
Most towns/cities have minimum stray holds for dogs (though these may be as short as 2-3 days)
Many towns have some sort of Animal Control Officer that will attempt to pick up loose dogs
People are more likely to report or try to catch a loose dog

How are Lost Dogs Found?

Weiss et al. (2012) found that most dogs (38-59%) were found by searching the neighborhood. This was followed by 13-29% returned home on their own. Nine to 23% were found due to an ID tag or microchip. Only 2-12% were found by visiting or calling animal control/shelter. This study used a random phone survey so is less biased then other studies.

Lord et al. (2007b) found that most lost dogs were found due to a call or visit to an animal agency/shelter (34.8%). This was followed by 25.5% found due to a license or ID tag and 15.2% found due to neighborhood signs. Only 7.6% of dogs returned home on their own. The results from this study are somewhat biased because they found survey participants by contacting people that had reported their pet lost to the shelter or had posted a lost pet ad in the newspaper. This likely led to an underestimate of lost dogs found in the neighborhood or due to ID tags.

They also found that owners were significantly more likely to recover their lost dogs when they called or visited an animal agency, and posted signs in the neighborhood. Dogs wearing a license and ID tag when lost were more likely to be recovered. Dogs believed stolen were less likely to be recovered, even though the search effort was not different.

Literature Cited with Abstracts, Notes and Tables

Do you still want to learn more about lost pet statistics? The following articles were researched to write this article. This bibliography includes abstracts (summaries), additional notes, and tables.

Huang, L., M. Coradini, J. Rand, J. Morton, K. Albrecht, B. Wasson, and D. Robertson. 2018. Search methods used to locate missing cats and locations where missing cats are found. Animals 8(1): 5. https://doi.org/10.3390/ani8010005

Abstract: Missing pet cats are often not found by their owners, with many being euthanized at shelters. This study aimed to describe times that lost cats were missing for, search methods associated with their recovery, locations where found and distances travelled. A retrospective case series was conducted where self-selected participants whose cat had gone missing provided data in an online questionnaire. Of the 1210 study cats, only 61% were found within one year, with 34% recovered alive by the owner within 7 days. Few cats were found alive after 90 days. There was evidence that physical searching increased the chance of finding the cat alive (p = 0.073), and 75% of cats were found within 500 m of the point of escape. Up to 75% of cats with outdoor access traveled 1609 m, further than the distance traveled by indoor-only cats (137 m; p ? 0.001). Cats considered to be highly curious were more likely to be found inside someone else’s house compared to other personality types. These findings suggest that thorough physical searching is a useful strategy, and should be conducted within the first week after cats go missing. They also support further investigation into whether shelter, neuter and return programs improve the chance of owners recovering missing cats and decrease numbers of cats euthanized in shelters.

Visit the Lost Pet Research blog for a full review of this article.

Lord, L.K., T.E. Wittum, A.K. Ferketich, J.A. Funk, and P.J. Rajala-Schultz. 2007a. Search and identification methods that owners use to find a lost cat. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association 230(2): 217-220.

http://www.localpethealth.com/Portals/0/searchmethodsusedtofindlostcats.pdf

Abstract: Objective: To characterize the process by which owners search for lost cats and identify factors associated with time to recovery. Design: Cross-sectional study. Sample population: Owners of 138 cats lost in Montgomery County, Ohio, between June 1 and September 30, 2005. Procedures: A telephone survey was conducted. Results: 73 of the 138 (53%) cats were recovered; median time to recovery was 5 days (range, 0.5 to 81 days). Most cats (48 [66%]) that were recovered returned home on their own or were found in the neighborhood (5 [7%]); most other cats were recovered through posting of neighborhood signs (8 [11%]) or calling or visiting an animal agency (5 [7%]). The highest success rate for any of the search methods that were used was only 12% (posting neighborhood signs). Only 26 of the 138 (19%) cats had some type of identification at the time they were lost (ie, identification tag, rabies tag, or microchip). Owners allowed 82 (59%) cats to spend at least some time outdoors. The percentage of sexually intact cats recovered by their owners (4/16 [25%]) was significantly lower than the percentage of neutered cats recovered (69/122 [57%]). Conclusions: Results suggest that the percentage of lost cats recovered by their owners is low, possibly in part because of the lack of use of traditional identification methods and the general acceptance that cats may roam. Veterinarians can help educate owners about the importance of identification and the need to keep cats indoors.

Table 1 from Lord et al. 2007a

Notes:

Biased sample – only included owners of lost cats that either placed an advertisement in the lost-and-found portion of the local newspaper or that contacted one of the county’s 3 animal agencies.
53% (73/138) recovered. Conclude that traditional search and identification methods are largely ineffective.
35% of all cats returned home on their own. 66% of found cats returned home on their own.
Median recovery time = 5 days (range 0.5 to 81 days)
See Table 1 for how found. Most found cats (66%) returned home on their own.
66% (73) found at home, 29% (21) were found less than 1 mile from home, 3% (2) were found 1-5 miles from home, and 3% were found more than 5 miles from home.
The percentage of sexually intact cats recovered (25%) was significantly lower than the percentage of neutered cats recovered (57%) (P = 0.02).
41% (56) of lost cats were indoor-only cats.
Lost before: 78% of cats had never been lost before, 17% had been lost 1-5 times previously, and 5% had been lost more than 5 times before.
Identification: 10% of cats were wearing ID tag, 6% wearing rabies tag, and 7% had a microchip. Overall, 14% were wearing some type of visible ID and 19% had any type of ID. Only 1 cat recovered due to ID tag. Having identification did not increase the likelihood that the cat was recovered. (Probably because so many cats returned home on their own.)
Shelters: Only 7% of cats were found by calling or visiting an animal agency. RTO rate in this county was 1.5% for cats. No mandatory hold period, but most held for 72 hours. Medium time to visit/call shelter was 3 days, and median time between visits was 8 days.

Lord, L.K., T.E. Wittum, A.K. Ferketich, J.A. Funk, and P.J. Rajala-Schultz. 2007b. Search and identification methods that owners use to find a lost dog. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association 230(2): 211-216.

Abstract: Objective: To characterize the process by which owners search for lost dogs and identify factors associated with time to recovery. Design: Cross-sectional study. Sample Population: Owners of 187 dogs lost in Montgomery County, Ohio, between June 1 and September 30, 2005. Procedures: A telephone survey was conducted. Results: 132 of the 187 (71%) dogs were recovered; median time to recovery was 2 days (range, 0.5 to 21 days). Dogs were recovered primarily through a call or visit to an animal agency (46 [34.8%]), a dog license tag (24 [18.2%]), and posting of neighborhood signs (20 [15.2%]). Eighty-nine (48%) dogs had some type of identification at the time they were lost (ie, identification tag, dog license tag, rabies tag, or microchip). Owners had a higher likelihood of recovery when they called an animal agency (hazard ratio, 2.1), visited an animal agency (1.8), and posted neighborhood signs. Dogs that were wearing a dog license tag also had a higher likelihood of recovery (hazard ratio, 1.6). Owners were less likely to recover their dogs if they believed their dogs were stolen (hazard ratio, 0.3). Conclusions: Results suggest that various factors are associated with the likelihood that owners will recover a lost dog. Both animal agencies and veterinarians can play a role in educating dog owners on the importance of identification tags, licensing, and microchips and can help to emphasize the importance of having a search plan in case a dog is lost.

Table 1 from Lord et al. 2007b

Notes:

At the time of the study, each county had a dog warden and a dog license was required. Required to hold unlicensed dogs for 3 days and licensed dogs for 14 days.
RTO 19%
Biased sample – only included owners of lost dogs that either placed an advertisement in the lost-and-found portion of the local newspaper or that contacted one of the county’s 3 animal agencies.
71% of dogs recovered.
Median recovery time was 2 days (range 0.5 to 21 days)
See Table 1 for Methods found.
8% returned home, 71% found less than one mile, 14% were found 1-5 miles, and 7% were found more than 5 miles from home.
54% had never been lost before, 28% had been lost 1-5 times previously and 18% had been lost more than 5 times before.
ID: 43% were wearing some type of ID tag, and 48% had some form of identification. Only 8% had a microchip. 53% of dogs with ID were found vs 35% of dogs without ID.
Shelters: 28% of dogs were found by calling or visiting a shelter. Median time to call or visit was 1 day (0-14 day range). Owners that found their dogs visited or called the shelter sooner and checked more frequently than those that did not.
Significance: Owners were significantly more likely to recover their lost dogs when they called an animal agency, visited, and posted signs in the neighborhood. However, posting signs did not become effective until the dog was lost for > 7 days. Dogs wearing a license when lost were more likely to be recovered. Dogs believed stolen were less likely to be recovered, but search effort was not different.

Lord, L.K., T.E. Wittum, A.K. Ferketich, J.A. Funk, and P.J. Rajala-Schultz. 2007c.

Search methods that people use to find owners of lost pets. Journal of the American

Veterinary Medical Association 230(12): 1835-1840.

Abstract: Objective: To characterize the process by which people who find lost pets search for the owners. Design: Cross-sectional study. Sample Population-188 individuals who found a lost pet in Dayton, Ohio, between March 1 and June 30, 2006. Procedures-Potential participants were identified as a result of contact with a local animal agency or placement of an advertisement in the local newspaper. A telephone survey was conducted to identify methods participants used to find the pets' owners. Results: 156 of 188 (83%) individuals completed the survey. Fifty-nine of the 156 (38%) pets were reunited with their owners; median time to reunification was 2 days (range, 0.5 to 45 days). Only 1 (3%) cat owner was found, compared with 58 (46%) dog owners. Pet owners were found as a result of information provided by an animal agency (25%), placement of a newspaper advertisement (24%), walking the neighborhood (19%), signs in the neighborhood (15%), information on a pet tag (10%), and other methods (7%). Most finders (87%) considered it extremely important to find the owner, yet only 13 (8%) initially surrendered the found pet to an animal agency. The primary reason people did not surrender found pets was fear of euthanasia (57%). Only 97 (62%) individuals were aware they could run a found-pet advertisement in the newspaper at no charge, and only 1 person who was unaware of the no-charge policy placed an advertisement. Conclusions: Veterinarians and shelters can help educate people who find lost pets about methods to search for the pets' owners.

Weiss, E. M. Slater, and L. Lord. 2012. Frequency of Lost Dogs and Cats in the United

States and the Methods Used to Locate Them. Animals 2: 301-315.

http://www.mdpi.com/2076-2615/2/2/301

Abstract: A cross-sectional national random digit dial telephone interview was conducted between September and November 2010. There were 1,015 households that had owned a dog or cat within the past five years. Of these 817 households owned dogs and 506 owned cats. Fourteen percent of dogs (95% Confidence Interval (CI): 11–16%) and 15% (95% CI: 12–18%) of cats were lost in the past five years. No owner demographic variables were associated with losing a pet. Ninety three percent (95% CI: 86–97%) of dogs and 75% (95% CI: 64–85%) of cats were recovered. For dogs, searching the neighborhood and returning on their own were the most common methods of finding the dog; 14% were found through an identification tag. For cats, returning on their own was most common. Dogs were more likely than cats to be lost more than once. Cats were less likely than dogs to have any type of identification. Knowledge of the successful methods of finding dogs and cats can provide invaluable help for owners of lost pets. Since 25% of lost cats were not found, other methods of reuniting cats and their owners are needed. Collars and ID tags or humane trapping could be valuable approaches.

From Table 1 of Weiss et al. 2012

Notes:

14% (11-16%) of dogs and 15% (12-18%) of cats went missing at least once in the past 5 years.
93% of dogs in the study (86-97% in US population) and 75% of cats in the study (63-84% in the US population) were found
Not a set definition for "lost"; owners were allowed to define lost in their own way. Best interpretation would be any time that the owner was concerned about the absence of the pet.
Dogs were more likely than cats to be lost more than once. P=0.05
Cats were less likely than dogs to have any type of ID or even a collar. 11% (6-19%) of dogs and 56% (44-68%) of cats had no form of ID when lost (P<0.001)
Found that lost neutered pets, those belonging to respondents with more education, and lost cats belonging to respondents with higher income were more likely to be found.
Most dogs were found by searching the neighborhood (49%, 38-59%). Followed by 20% (13-29%) returned home on their own. Only 6% (2-12%) were found by visiting or calling animal control and 15% (9-23%) were found with in ID or microchip.
Most cats returned home on their own (59%, 45-72%). Followed by 30% (18-44%) found in the neighborhood. Only 2% (0.04-10%) were found due to ID or a microchip and the same were found due to visiting or calling animal control.

RTO Rates from Various Studies:

1.5% for cats and 19% for dogs in Montgomery County, OH. No animal control laws at county level for cats.
3% for cats in San Mateo County, CA. Increased to 4.5% when ID and licensing of cats was required.
5.2% in Honolulu where cats are required to wear ID.
10-30% ROI for dogs and 5% for cats in US (HSUS online)

The post Lost Pet Statistics appeared first on Lost Pet Research and Recovery.

Using Bird Alarm Calls to Find a Lost Cat

Danielle Robertson — Thu, 15 Nov 2018 19:45:35 +0000

In addition to listening for your cat, you should keep an ear out for bird alarm calls during the search for your lost cat. Song birds make a variety of sounds including songs, calls and alarms. They use alarm calls to warn other birds about potential threats such as predators. Some even have different alarm calls to indicate whether the potential predator is on the ground or in the sky. If your cat is hiding in a bush or stuck in a tree, birds may surround your cat and make alarm calls.

In the video below, Jon Young, describes how birds position themselves around a cat when alarm calling. This particular cat is stalking, so the bird pattern and alarms will move. With an escaped indoor-only cat that is hiding in fear or a cat stuck in a tree, the alarm call location will be fairly static.

The most effective method for listening for bird alarms calls is to just sit and listen in your own yard. You can also listen when searching your neighbor's properties. However, be aware that birds may also make alarm calls if disturbed by human activity. You are more likely to cause bird alarm calls by walking through dense vegetation or wooded areas. A safer way to check the woods is walking along open areas along the woods edge or at least staying on trails.

You can find a list of bird alarm calls on the Bird Language site. Scroll to the bottom of the page for a list of recorded bird alarm calls. If you aren't familiar with the birds in your area, some common species to check in the US include the American Robin, Dark-eyed Junco, Northern Cardinal, Hermit Thrush, Black-capped Chickadee, and Northern Mockingbird. You really don't need to memorize the calls. If you listen to a few of them, you will find that the nature of the calls are fairly similar. An alarm call is often a series of loud, repeated notes. For comparison, listen to a few of the bird songs, which have more of a melody and take longer to repeat.

Example Bird Alarm Calls

American Robin Alarm Call

Northern Cardinal Alarm Call

Mockingbird Alarm Call

Wren Alarm Call

Crows and Jays have loud distinct alarm calls. However, these types of birds also tend to make these calls for many reasons besides alarms. Crows may mob a cat stuck up in a tree, so loud cawing is still worth checking out to see if it has a cause.

Squirrel and Chipmunk Alarm Calls

Squirrels, chipmunks and other small mammals also use alarm calls. The Bird Language site includes alarm calls for several species of squirrels, chipmunk, and a few other small mammals. Be aware that squirrels and chipmunks also use their alarm calls on humans. So if you disturbed them during your search, they may be chirping at you. In my experience, squirrels and chipmunks are often within sight of a cat, but not nearly as close as birds. They may also pick up an alarm call from another squirrel, chipmunk or bird without being near the perceived threat.

Gray Squirrel Alarm Call

Chipmunk Alarm Call

Don't Forget to Listen for Your Cat Too

Most cats will not meow when lost but some will, so be sure to take some time to stop and listen during your search. Don't get tricked by the cat bird, which has a call that sometimes sounds like the mewing of a cat.

Cat Bird Call

References and Suggested Reading

Bird Language Audio Library - site founded by Jon Young. Includes examples of songs, calls and alarms for many North American birds.

Young, J. and T. Morgan. 2007. Animal Tracking Basics. Stackpole Books. 305 pages.

Young, J. 2013. What the Robin Knows: How Birds Reveal the Secrets of the Natural World. Mariner Books. 272 pages.

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Will Cat Litter Attract a Lost Cat?

Danielle Robertson — Sat, 20 Oct 2018 00:39:51 +0000

If your cat is missing, you probably heard that you should put out their cat litter box or spread dirty litter around your yard to help them find their way home. You may have even heard that your cat can smell their dirty litter a mile away. Unfortunately, there is no evidence that a cat can smell their litter box from that far away. More realistically, they might be able to smell it up to a few hundred feet away (depending on wind and weather conditions) and often a lot less. You may have found examples of people swearing that dirty cat litter really works. However, in many cases, lost cats return home on their own for other reasons, and the presence of cat litter is likely just a coincidence. In some cases cat litter is more likely to reduce the chance of finding your lost cat.

Risks of Putting Out Dirty Cat Litter

If you have an outdoor-access cat that disappeared from a familiar location, then it makes no sense to put out dirty cat litter. If they are close enough to smell the litter, they are probably close enough that they already know their way home. On the other hand, IF you have an escaped indoor-only cat or a displaced outdoor-access cat (i.e. lost from an unfamiliar location or a new home), there is some chance that the scent of their urine and feces MIGHT help them find their way home. However, before you go and put out the cat litter, you should be aware of the potential risks involved.

Risk of Attracting Other Cats

The most likely risk of putting out cat litter is inadvertently attracting other cats. If you have an escaped indoor-only cat, then your yard may be within the territory of one or more outdoor-access or stray cats. If you put out your cat’s litter, other cats may see this as a threat to their territory. They may be attracted to the litter box and possibly use it or spray objects around the box. If your cat smells the scent-marks of the resident cats, they may feel too threatened to return home. Worst case, you might attract an aggressive territorial cat into your yard, which might chase your cat away.

Risk of Attracting Predators

Many wild predators like foxes and bobcats use their feces to mark their territory. To do this, they place their scat on prominent locations such as on top of rocks or logs. Domestic cats on the other hand tend to bury their feces. This may be an instinctive behavior to protect them from detection by other larger predators like coyotes and bobcats. By putting your cat’s dirty litter outside, you risk attracting area predators around your home. Depending on where you live, the risk of attracting predators may be relatively low, but do you want to take that risk?

Should You Ever Put Out Cat Litter?

I generally do not recommend putting out dirty cat litter due to the potential risks of attracting other cats or predators. However, I cannot conclude at this time whether or not it is a potential attractant for a lost cat. If you feel compelled to put out your cat’s litter (just in case), please at least follow these guidelines:

Don’t spread the litter around your yard. Keep it in a litter box or bowl.
Don’t put the litter box near the point of escape for a lost indoor-only cat. This is the location that your cat is most likely to return to on their own. Don’t risk attracting other cats that might scare your cat away.
Only put out the litter box in an enclosed area such as a garage, shed or basement where it is less likely to attract predators.
Don’t ever put out litter for an outdoor-access cat missing from their home. It just doesn’t make sense.
Use some sort of surveillance or wildlife camera to ensure that you are not attracting other cats or predators.
Most importantly – don’t just put out cat litter and hope your cat will return home! If you aren’t proactive in your search, the chances of finding your cat are very low.

In ten years of searching for missing cats, I have only heard of one case where a lost indoor-only cat appeared attracted to their dirty cat litter. This cat was lost away from home in a city park. The owners sprinkled dirty cat litter along the area (thick reeds) where the cat had disappeared. The first time that they saw her, she had come out of the reeds and was peeing near the dirty cat litter. However, I have had several other cases where the presence of cat litter (or the lost cat’s belongings) appeared to attract neighborhood cats.

If you have had an experience where cat litter helped find a lost cat OR caused problems in your search (such as attracting neighborhood cats or predators), please share your story in the comments.

The post Will Cat Litter Attract a Lost Cat? appeared first on Lost Pet Research and Recovery.

Best Cat Tracking Devices

Danielle Robertson — Thu, 11 Oct 2018 19:36:17 +0000

Cat trackers come in a variety of options including GPS (satellite or cellular), radio-trackers (or RFID), and Bluetooth trackers. Contrary to popular belief, microchips do not have any remote tracking capabilities (learn more here). Being involved in lost pet recovery work for over 10 years, I definitely recommend cat trackers for both indoor and outdoor-access cats.

All of the cat trackers described here must be attached to either a collar or harness. Several research studies have found that the risk of cats getting injured or killed by a collar is highly exaggerated. In my opinion, this is worth the risk given the number of cats that are lost. To reduce the risk of accidental strangulation, you can attach most trackers to a breakaway collar.

Table of Contents

GPS versus Radio-Trackers

How GPS Pet Trackers Work

GPS Pros

GPS Cons

Best GPS Cat Trackers

Whistle GPS Pet Trackers

Whistle Health & GPS Features

Pawtrack GPS Cat Collar

Pawtrack GPS Features

Honorable Mention GPS Trackers

How Radio-Tracking Devices Work

Radio-Tracker Pros

Radio-Tracker Cons

Best Cat Radio-Tracking Devices

TabCat Pet Tracker (a.k.a. Loc8tor Pet)

TabCat Features

Marco Polo Pet Tracker

Marco Polo Features

Best Radio-Tracking Device for Multiple Cats

I am currently working on updating this article for 2025. Several of the GPS trackers are no longer available and Fi recently introduced a cat GPS.

GPS versus Radio-Trackers

First it can be helpful to determine if a GPS or a radio-tracking device makes more sense. In general, a GPS tracker is more appropriate for an outdoor-access cat, especially one that tends to wander through multiple yards or into the woods. A GPS can also be very useful if you move to a new home with an outdoor-access cat since they are at a higher risk of going missing or even attempting to travel back to their old home.

A radio-tracker is usually best for indoor-only cats, since they don't usually travel far from their point of escape and they tend to hide really well. Radio-trackers are also useful for traveling with your cat since a displaced cat (e.g. one lost away from home) is more likely to hide nearby though a small percentage of lost outdoor-access cats may attempt to travel back home. If you are on a budget or your outdoor-access cat tends to stay close to home, a radio-tracker is also a good option.

On the other hand, if you want to be extra safe, some people choose to use both a GPS and radio-tracker. This improves your ability to locate your cat and provides a back-up if the battery on one device fails.

How GPS Pet Trackers Work

GPS (Global Positioning System) trackers work by using satellites and/or cellular networks to locate your cat. Most GPS pet trackers work with an app on a smart phone. When you ask to "locate" your pet, the app will find your cat using GPS and/or cell phone coverage and indicate their location on a map along with an address (if they are near a home).

GPS locations are not always exact, so you may need to search within 100 feet or more of the indicated location to find your cat. This may be difficult if your cat is moving around while you are searching. Most GPS trackers do offer a tracking feature that provides repeated map locations of your cat, but this can really drain the battery. In some situations, the GPS may not be able to get a location on your cat.

Overall, low battery life is the biggest drawback of a GPS tracker. Many GPS trackers only have a battery life of a few days. If your cat stays near the house, the battery may last for a week or longer (on a good tracker), but once outside the home base (usually determined by your WiFi range), the battery will quickly drain in as little as a day. Many escaped indoor-only cats are too frightened to come out of hiding even for their owner and need to be humanely trapped. If you are not able to locate and catch your cat within a few days, their GPS battery will likely go dead.

GPS Pros

Can locate your cat even if they have traveled far from home.
Provides a mapped location of your cat.
Sends a notification when your cat travels outside a set "safe zone" around your home.
Sends a notification when the battery level is low so that you know to recharge it in time.

GPS Cons

Device is larger and heavier than a radio-tag. Generally not suitable for small cats.
Most require a monthly subscription plan and home WiFi.
Battery needs to be recharged often. If your cat stays near the house, the battery may last for a week or longer (on some trackers), but once outside the home base (usually determined by your WiFi range), the battery will quickly drain in a few days.
May not be able to get a signal depending on GPS and/or cell coverage in the area. Also may not work if your cat is trapped in a basement or hiding underground.

Best GPS Cat Trackers

At this time, I don't have a single favorite GPS tracker for cats. The biggest drawback on all GPS trackers is their short battery life. Based on my research and experience, these are some of the better GPS trackers, but they all have pros and cons. Most trackers offer trial periods and free returns so your best options is to try a tracker or two and see what works best in your area and situation.

Whistle GPS Pet Trackers

I used Whistle pet trackers on my search dog Dante for most his life. For my cats, I use radio-trackers, but this is also a decent GPS for cats. As of 2024, Whistle has two GPS styles: Whistle Go Explore 2.0 and Whistle Switch. Whistle recommends the Switch for small dogs and Go Explore for dogs 25 lbs and up. However, the Switch is built into a non-breakaway collar so I wouldn't recommend this one for cats. The Go Explore is actually lighter than than the Switch. It is just more bulky, but it can be attached to a breakaway collar. Whistle used to advertise that this size tracker was suitable for pets 8 lbs and up.

For a GPS, the Go Explore has a relatively long battery life of up to 15 days if your pet stays within wifi range. However, the battery only lasts 2-3 days in areas with poor cell service. You will also receive a notification when the battery is low and it quickly charges in less than 2 hours.

Whistle Go Explore/the Ultimate Health + GPS Location Tracker for Pets/Grey

Subscription required. Plan covers location tracking with GPS, health and fitness monitoring...
Location Tracking. Set up alerts and quickly locate your pet, whether they’ve made a sneaky...
Health, Nutrition, & Activity Tracking. Monitor activity levels, calories, distance, and activity...

Last update on 2026-11-04 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

I will add photos of cats wearing the Whistle GPS as soon as I get my cats to cooperate.

Where to Buy Whistle Go

Whistle Go is available from Amazon.com, but if you buy directly from Whistle, you get a 90-day money back guarantee. They also offer FREE 2-day shipping. Just click the ad below to learn more.

Whistle Health & GPS Features

Light and durable. Weighs only 0.96 ounces (27 g) and is suitable for cats weighing 8 lbs or more. Shock resistant and waterproof (IPX8).
Uses advanced GPS and cellular technology to pinpoint your cat's location anywhere in the U.S. using America's largest cell phone network, AT&T.
Set up "Safe Places" to receive text, app, or email notifications when your cat leaves their safe place and before they travel too far away.

Use the Trip Monitor feature to learn where your cat goes. Records locations over the past 24 hours whenever your cat leaves their "Safe Place."
Not too expensive and has one of the lowest cost GPS subscription plans.
Has one of the longest-lasting batteries of its kind and can last up to 15 days. Receive a notification when the battery gets low; recharges in only 2 hours.

Pawtrack GPS Cat Collar

Pawtrack is the only GPS tacking collar designed specifically for cats, and it works in multiple countries. Compared to Whistle 3, it has a better, more streamlined fit for your cat. In addition to using the smartphone app, you can also view your cat tracks and manage collar settings via computer. The biggest drawback to this GPS is the very short battery life. The battery only lasts 2 days, but it comes with a second battery pack so that you can easily switch them out. The Pawtrack collar costs almost twice as much as the Whistle 3, but it comes with one free year of tracking followed by a much lower annual subscription fee.

Unlike other GPS pet trackers, Pawtrack also has a Beacon mode. This feature makes the collar emit a signal that is picked up by your smartphone and helps you pinpoint the location of your cat. Since GPS locations are often not exact and cats sometimes move around or hide, this is a great extra feature for a GPS collar.

Where to Buy Pawtrack

Pawtrack is only available on Pawtrack.com. You have 14 days from the time you receive the collar to let them know if you want to return it for a refund, but they may be able to arrange extra time to evaluate the collar if needed.

Pawtrack GPS Features

Only GPS collar designed specifically for cats - GPS is integrated into the collar which has a breakaway design for safety.
Collar weighs 1.23 ounces (35 g), which is suitable for most adult cats, and comes in three collar sizes. Splash proof design is okay in the rain, but is not waterproof.
Uses Gallileo, Glonass, GPS, and WiFi to track your cat almost anywhere in the world.

Advanced app features: Set up geo-fence boundaries around your home to get notifications when your cat leaves this area. View your cat's travels over the past 24 hours and you can even download the data as a CSV (Excel compatible) file.
Has one of the lowest cost annual subscription plans for a GPS.
Battery only lasts 2 days on average, but includes a second battery pack so you can easily switch them out. You will also receive a notification when the battery is low.

Honorable Mention GPS Trackers

At some point, I plan to add reviews for Jiobit and Tractive as well. Jiobit looks like a decent tracker with good battery life. I haven't used it but some of my clients have.

I have used Tractive and it is a decent and affordable tracker. I especially like that you can export the GPS data to Google Earth with the premium plan. BUT it has relatively low battery life. I wouldn't recommend it unless you are okay with recharging the tracker every few days.

Tractive Smart Cat GPS Tracker | Real-Time Location & Wellness Monitoring for...

REAL-TIME GPS TRACKING WITH UNLIMITED RANGE: Track your cat with live location updates every...
HEALTH, SLEEP & ACTIVITY MONITORING: Stay on top of your cat’s wellness with daily insights into...
VIRTUAL FENCES AND LOCATION HISTORY: Set safe zones and get alerts if your cat leaves. See where...

Last update on 2026-11-04 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

How Radio-Tracking Devices Work

Radio-trackers use radio frequency signals and require a transmitter (radio-tag) to send the signal and a receiver (handheld device) to receive the signal. Basically, your cat wears a small radio-tag on their collar, and you have to walk around with a handheld receiver to try and locate your cat. The receiver will beep louder the closer you get to your cat. Radio-trackers can transmit signals through buildings, so you can still locate your cat if they are trapped in a shed or basement.

The main drawback to radio-trackers is that they usually have a limited range, generally anywhere from 100 feet up to 2 miles depending on the strength of the signal and the terrain you are searching. The signal will travel much farther in open areas compared to wooded areas or through buildings. In order to easily find your cat with a radio-tracking device, you will need to practice. The signal can be difficult to follow depending on the terrain and where your cat is located.

Radio-Tracker Pros

Generally smaller and lighter than a GPS, so can be used by even small cats and kittens.
Batteries last much longer than a GPS. May last for six weeks to several months depending on the radio-tracker.
One time payment. Does not require a monthly subscription plan.
Works anywhere! Does not require internet, GPS or cell coverage.
Once your cat's signal is picked up, the receiver allows you to follow it right up to their exact hiding spot. Some radio-tags will even flash or beep to make finding them easier once you are close.

Radio-Tracker Cons

Your cat needs to be within range of the receiver in order for the signal to be picked up. Depending on the device this may be anywhere from 100 feet up to 2 miles.
The signal can sometimes be difficult to follow and requires practice to use it easily.
Does not give you any notification that the battery needs to be recharged or replaced.

Best Cat Radio-Tracking Devices

There aren't nearly as many radio-tracking devices available on the market as there are GPS trackers. However, in general, they are smaller and more suitable for most cats. You may be tempted to try the cheaper option of a Bluetooth tracker such as Tile, but these generally aren't as reliable as a radio-tracker. Bluetooth trackers are designed to find lost things and aren't designed to safely stay on a cat collar. Before making any purchase, be sure to check out reviews on their site and a trusted third-party site like Amazon or Ebay. Based on my research and experience, these are the radio-trackers that I recommend.

TabCat Pet Tracker (a.k.a. Loc8tor Pet)

TabCat (also called Loc8tor Pet) is one of the smallest, affordable cat radio-tracking devices. The tracker comes with two transmitter tags and one receiver, and you can buy up to two additional tags. Easy to use; just turn on the small handheld receiver, select the missing cat's tag, and start searching. Once the radio-tag's signal is picked up, the receiver will begin to beep and flash, and the closer you get to your cat, the louder and brighter it will get. Once you are quite close, you can turn off the volume, and listen for the beeping of the radio-tag attached to your cat's collar.

The biggest drawback of TabCat is its relatively short range of only 400 feet in open terrain. If your cat is outside of this range, then you need to search around until you pick up a signal. Realistically it will pick up a signal within 200-300 feet if your cat is in the woods or only 50 feet if your cat is stuck in a basement. However, even with the short range, it often works well for escaped indoor-only cats since they usually hide nearby. I have had a few cases where it helped locate lost outdoor-access cats. First the general location of the cat was determined with posters, and then they were able to go to that location and quickly track down their cat with the locator. My own cats Lily and Violet are still wearing their Loc8tor Pet trackers, which I purchased in 2015.

Where to Buy TabCat

Tabcat is available from Amazon.com or directly from Tabcat.

Tabcat V2 Cat & Kitten Tracker - More Accurate Than GPS - No Monthly Fee or...

TRACK YOUR CAT EASILY: Our RF technology allows you to easily track your cat or kitten, much more...
EASY TO USE LOCATOR: The accurate handset holder guides you to your cat with with just 1 button...
LIGHTWEIGHT FOR CATS & KITTENS: At just 0.2 Oz, smaller & lighter than the original, our light...

Last update on 2026-11-04 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

TabCat Features

One time payment. Unlike GPS trackers, a radio-tracker does not require a subscription plan.
Small enough for cats and kittens. Tag weighs only 0.25 ounces. Attaches to your cat's existing collar and can be used with breakaway collars.
Maximum range of up to 400 feet in open area. Works anywhere! Does not require internet, GPS or cellular networks.

Splash-proof cover protects tags from the elements.
Easy to use with just a little practice. Simply push the ON button, then select the tag for the missing cat and start searching.
Batteries usually last several months. Uses replaceable CR2032 button cell batteries.

Marco Polo Pet Tracker

If you want a radio-tracker with longer range and more reliability, then you should check out the Marco Polo. Easy to set up and use; just press a single button to start searching, and Marco Polo will scan up to 2-miles (in open terrain). As soon as your cat is located, you will receive real-time distance and direction feedback to help track down your cat. Marco Polo is the highest rated radio-tracker pet locator on Amazon.com.

Where to Buy Marco Polo

Marco Polo is available on Amazon.com and often includes free 2-day shipping with Amazon Prime.

Marco Polo Advanced Pet Tracker for Cats & Dogs - GPS Alternative, No Monthly...

FIND LOST PETS QUICKLY WITHOUT GPS OR CELL SERVICE: The Marco Polo system uses long-range RF radio...
ULTRA-LIGHTWEIGHT WATERPROOF COLLAR TAG: Designed for cats and dogs 5 lbs and larger. This rugged...
REAL-TIME DIRECTIONAL HOMING: Unlike GPS trackers that only show a dot on a map, Marco Polo acts...

Last update on 2026-11-04 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Marco Polo Features

Search range up to 2-miles in open terrain. Works anywhere! Does not require internet, GPS or cellular networks.
Small enough for cats weighing at least 5 lbs. Just attach to your cat's existing collar.
One time payment. Unlike GPS trackers, a radio-tracker does not require a subscription plan.

Includes a rechargeable battery that lasts up to six weeks on a single charge.
Tracking tags are waterproof and can even handle prolonged swimming.
Package comes with equipment for a single pet, but it will handle up to three pets with the purchase of additional tracking tags.

Best Radio-Tracking Device for Multiple Cats

I am working on adding this review. The LoCATor is probably the best tracker for multiple cats. It is only available from their website.

The post Best Cat Tracking Devices appeared first on Lost Pet Research and Recovery.

Review of “Search Methods Used to Locate Missing Cats and Locations Where Missing Cats Are Found”

Danielle Robertson — Sun, 29 Jul 2018 18:15:49 +0000

This is a review of a research paper published in Animals (2018) on “Search methods used to locate missing cats and locations where missing cats are found,” which was a collaboration between researchers at the University of Queensland (Australia), Missing Pet Partnership, Missing Animal Response Network, and Lost Pet Research & Recovery.

Table of Contents

Study Methods

Results and Discussion

Demographics of Cats

Circumstances Preceding and Leading to Cats Going Missing

Probabilities of Being Found Alive by Time Since Lost

Search Methods Used, Perceived Useful Methods, and Associations with Cat Being Found Alive – Table 5

Distances to Where Cat was Found

Locations Where Cats were Found

Cats’ Demeanor When Found

Notes

*Categories of Effectiveness for Search Methods

Limitations and Errors in Study Design

Errors in Paper Results and Discussion

Literature Reviewed

Study Methods

This study was conducted from June through August 2016 using an online questionnaire on Survey Monkey. Participants were recruited using a convenience sample, including snowballing. This just means that the survey link was shared online including Facebook and anyone that wanted to participate could fill out the survey. The survey allowed multiple entries by the same person in case they lost more than one cat or their cat went missing more than once. The questionnaire included 47 questions relating to 1) basic history of the lost cat, 2) circumstances in which the cat went missing, 3) search methods used to locate the cat, and 4) circumstances in which the cat was found. Statistics were completed by a hired statistician using Stata (version 14, StataCorp, College Station, TX, USA).

Results and Discussion

There was A LOT of data collected in this study. View the full article to see summary tables of the results. I’m including the results below that I thought were most interesting in the study and in some cases grouping the results slightly differently then the final publication. I’m also including my personal interpretation of the results and a few unpublished results that I found interesting.

Demographics of Cats

A total of 1,210 lost cats were analyzed in this study. Half of cats in the study had gone missing within the last two years. Most (59%) were from the US followed by Australia (20%) and Canada (14%), and 77% lived in residential areas consisting primarily of houses with yards. There were slightly more male cats (57%) than females (43%) and most cats were adults 1-7 years (67%) and spayed/neutered (96%). About half (46%) of cats had a microchip, but only 19% had a collar with an ID tag. The paper reports that most cats were acquired from a shelter or rescue (33%) or from a family member or acquaintance (18%). However, if you combine “found as a stray in a public location” and “appeared as a stray at my home,” then many cats were also found as “strays” (20%). (see Table 2)

In the six months prior to going missing, most cats (46%) were allowed outdoors unsupervised (e.g. “outdoor-access”), followed by 28% strictly indoor-only, 23% primarily indoor (e.g. allowed outside supervised, on-leash or in an enclosure), and 3% outdoor-only. Of the strictly indoor-only cats, 22% had previously escaped and another 42% had some previous outdoor-experience. (see Table 2)

Circumstances Preceding and Leading to Cats Going Missing

Most (93%) cats went missing from a familiar location while only 7% went missing from an unfamiliar location or while being transported. About 1/3 each went missing while indoors (37%), outdoors (25%) or were outdoor-access cats that just disappeared (31%) (Table 4). Most cats that were lost outdoors, went missing while not being supervised (64%). Not surprisingly, most indoor cats (indoor-only and primarily indoor) went missing while indoors (68%) while 17% went missing while outdoors such as on a leash or while supervised (unpublished data). Most cats that went missing indoors escaped out an open door or garage (74%) while 22% escaped from windows or balconies. Very few cats escaped while being transported (2%), and most of these escaped from a cat carrier (52%). Only 5% of cats were lost from an unfamiliar location with most of these went missing after a move to a new home (51%) or while at a friend’s or pet sitter’s home (34%). (see Table 4)

Probabilities of Being Found Alive by Time Since Lost

This analysis looked at the probability of a lost cat being found alive depending on how long they were missing.

34% were found alive by day 7
50% were found alive by day 30
57% were found alive by day 61
61% were found alive by one year

This suggests that owners of lost cats should search for a minimum of one month and up to two months. After that time, the chances of the cat being found alive only increase by a very small amount. Further analysis is needed into how long people searched for their missing cats. If people that did not find their cat are giving up “too soon,” then they will skew the results towards shorter successful recovery times. Preliminary analysis shows that people “searching continuously” did so for a median of 21 days, versus 91 days for people “searching on and off” and those no longer searching (unpublished data).

Median time lost for cats found alive was 6 days vs 21 days for cats found deceased. (Figure 1)

Search Methods Used, Perceived Useful Methods, and Associations with Cat Being Found Alive – Table 5

Survey respondents were offered six possible search methods: 1) physically did a search, 2) advertised, 3) contacted a facility or sought professional help, 4) used a trapping technique, 5) identification device (e.g. microchip), or 6) waited for the cat to come home (this included putting out food or leaving a door open) (Table 5). Respondents could select all the methods that they used and indicate the ones that helped the most (if they found their cat).

*If you would like an explanation of how I grouped the search methods into different categories of effectiveness, please see the Notes section at the bottom.

Physical Search

A physical search was the most common method used (96%) and there was evidence that a physical search increased the likelihood of finding a lost cat alive (p=0.071; a p value of less than 0.05 is generally considered statistically significant). Where a physical search was conducted, 59% of cats were found alive and 2% were found deceased.

Most Effective Methods:

Spoke with neighbors and asked them to look or assist in the search for my cat
Walked around the area at night, using a flashlight or spotlight
Asked and received neighbors’ permission to search their property using a slow methodical search
Searched my yard or the immediate area

Moderately Effective Methods:

Walked around the area during daylight hours
When looking for my cat, I searched slowly and methodically
Searched indoors

Least Effective Methods:

Drove around the area
While looking for my cat, I called its name

Advertising

Advertising was used 74% of the time with 54% of cats found alive and 2% found deceased. Significantly fewer cats were found alive when advertising was used (p<0.001). However, this does not mean that advertising decreases the chances of finding a lost cat. This statistic probably exists because more people start advertising after their cat has been gone for a while and probably try more advertising methods the longer the cat has been missing.

Most Effective Methods:

Distributed missing cat fliers
Mounted giant (22"x24") neon missing cat posters
Mounted small (8.5"x11") white missing cat posters

Moderately Effective Methods:

Used social media such as Facebook to spread the word that my cat was missing
Mounted small (8.5"x11") neon missing cat posters
Used an automated phone call alert system
Posted fliers in local businesses
Posted a lost pet advertisement in a newspaper

Least Effective Methods:

Mailed lost pet postcards
Posted an advertisement in online classifieds
Searched online for postings of found and adoptable cats
Posted on missing pet online database

Contacted a Facility or Sought Professional Help

About half (57%) of people contacted a facility or sought professional help. Of these 51% found their cat alive and 2% deceased. Most of these people (83%) called shelters, rescue groups or a municipal animal facilities while only 53% visited these facilities. About half contacted veterinarians (61%) or the police or animal control (50%). Only 24% received assistance from a pet detective or volunteer lost pet recovery group. Statistically fewer cats were found alive when owners sought professional help (p<0.001). This is probably due to people not seeking professional help until their cat had already been missing for a longer time, which decreased the likelihood of the cat being found in general. In fact, getting assistance from a pet detective or volunteer lost pet recovery service/group was one of the most helpful recovery methods (70% of people that hired a pet detective indicated that it was a search method that helped the most in finding their cat).

Most Effective Methods:

Received assistance from a pet detective or volunteer lost pet recovery service/group

Moderately Effective Methods:

Used an animal communicator or a pet psychic to tell me where my cat was located??

Least Effective Methods:

Visited shelters, rescue groups, or municipal animal facility
Contacted veterinarians
Called shelters, rescue groups, or municipal animal facility
Contacted animal control or the police department
Contacted microchip company such as Home Again or 24PetWatch

Used a Trapping Technique

Only 20% of survey respondents used a trapping technique. Of these 63% found their cat alive while 2% found them deceased. Trapping techniques are usually only effective for escaped indoor-only cats and displaced (lost away from home) outdoor-access cats, so it’s not surprising that only a small number of people used a humane trap. For those that used a humane cat trap, it was the single most helpful search method in the entire study (72% of people that used a humane trap or drop trap indicated that it was a search method that helped the most in finding their cat).

Most Effective Methods:

Used a humane trap or drop trap to capture my cat and bring it back home
Used a digital wildlife camera, video baby monitor or other surveillance camera to confirm my cat was hiding nearby

Least Effective Methods:

Used a “house as trap” method – open door, porch garage, or entry point that was monitored (baby monitor, driveway alarm, sat and watched door) which allowed me to see when my cat came home.

Identification Device

Most (62%) cats had an identification device with a microchip being most common (61%). Of cats wearing identification, 52% were found alive and 2% found deceased. Not enough cats were wearing a GPS or radio-tracking device for their effectiveness to be analyzed.

Most Effective Methods:

Identification tattoo**

Moderately Effective Methods:

Collar with ID tag

Microchip

In this study, microchipping did not lead to more cats being found. Since most cats were found outside (83%), not many found cats may have been scanned for microchips. There is also a known problem that many people do not properly register their microchips or keep their contact information up to date.

Waited

The effectiveness of waiting was compared to other methods but it was not analyzed by itself. Methods of waiting included:

Just waited for the cat to come back home
Left a way for my cat to come home such as an open door, porch or garage
Left food out to entice my cat
Used scent luring (article of clothing, dirty cat litter or scent of another cat) to attract my cat

Distances to Where Cat was Found

For cats found alive, the median distance traveled was 50 meters (164 feet) with a maximum of 25 km (15.5 miles). Of these cats, there was a significant difference (p<0.001) between the distance traveled by indoor-only cats versus outdoor-access cats. Distance traveled by outdoor-only cats was not significantly different. (See Figure 2 and Figure 3)

Median (average) distance traveled:

Indoor-only cats = 39 m (128 ft)
Outdoor-access cats = 300 m (984 ft)
Outdoor-only cats = 183 m (600 ft)

Based on the median and 75%th percentile (i.e. 75% of cats were found at or below this distance), I would suggest the following search areas.

Indoor-only cats = at least 39 m and up to 137 m (128-450 ft) radius from location lost
Outdoor-access cats = at least 300 m and up to 1600 m (approximately 1,000 feet – 1 mile) radius from location lost
Outdoor-only cats = at least 183 m and up to 1600 m (600 ft – 1 mile) radius from location lost

Only 17 cats found deceased had a recorded distance. For deceased cats, the median distance found was 200 m (656 ft) with a maximum of 5 km (3.1 miles). Deceased cats may show a farther distance traveled because cats found deceased close to home may never be considered “missing” and their owners were less likely to participate in this study. Analysis of deceased cats was limited due to the small sample size.

Locations Where Cats were Found

Most cats found alive where found outside (83%). Of these, 20% were found in someone’s yard, 19% were found waiting outside their own home, 16% were found hiding under vegetation or shrubbery, and 10% were found under a patio, deck or porch. Only 1% were found up a tree. Eleven percent of cats were found in someone else’s home while 4% were found somewhere in their own home. Most cats found in a neighbor’s house were either in the garage (28%), the basement (13%) or hiding behind/under furniture (22%). Only 2% of cats were found inside a public building. This would presumably include shelters and rescues, but that specific question was never asked. (See Table 6)

Cat owners were asked to rank how strongly their cat matched four cat personalities: 1) curious/clown cat, 2) aloof cat, 3) cautious cat, and 4) very timid/fearful cat. Cats considered very curious were most likely to be found in someone else’s house (p=0.005). (See Figure 4)

Cats’ Demeanor When Found

Most cats appeared scared (50%) when found, while 30% were quiet but alert and 25% were friendly/relaxed. Only 10% hissed or acted in the manner of feral cat. A quarter (25%) of cats were meowing when found and 9% were sick or injured. These results would be more informative if they were sub-categorized as indoor-only and outdoor-access cats.

Notes

*Categories of Effectiveness for Search Methods

I seperated search methods into three categories of effectiveness: “Most Effective Methods,” “Moderately Effective Methods,” and “Least Effective Methods.” These were based on the assigned % values in Table 5 under the far right column: “Where this method was used and the cat was found alive, % of those cats where this method helped the most (No./Denominator). I assigned them using the following values:

Most Effective Methods = 50% or more
Moderately Effective Methods = 40% to 49%
Least Effective Methods = less than 40%

Here is an explanation from the research paper of what these values mean: “The relative time taken to find the cat alive due to the particular search method, relative to the time taken to find the cat alive by other methods or waiting, is shown in the right-hand column in Table 5 (‘Where this method was used and the cat was found alive, % of those cats where this method helped the most’). A high percentage indicates that the particular search method was generally more rapid in resulting in the cat being found alive relative to the time that the alternative other methods and types and /or just waiting collectively took to result in the cat being found alive.”

Limitations and Errors in Study Design

The study did not differentiate between successful methods for finding Indoor-only versus Outdoor-access Cats

In my experience, the behavior for an escaped indoor-only cat is quite different from a missing outdoor-access cat. These differences are also recognized by the Missing Animal Response Network. Different search strategies are suggested based on the outdoor experience of the cat, the location lost and circumstances of disappearance. This study did find a difference in the distances traveled for indoor-only versus outdoor-access cats. However, there was not enough funding to conduct a statistical analysis which subdivided the search strategies used and determine which search methods were most effective for indoor-only versus outdoor-access cats. In my mind, this is a large limitation in the application of the study results to actual lost cat cases.

I did an analysis myself of the recovery rates of indoor-only versus outdoor-access cats (unpublished data). For indoor-only cats (including those that had some outdoor experience such as allowed outdoors supervised or were previously outdoor cats) 71% of cats were found versus only 45% of cats that were allowed outdoor unsupervised. These results might be biased if people were more likely to complete the survey if they had lost AND found their cat rather those still searching or never found their cat.

How many cats were found in a Shelter, Rescue Group or Municipal Animal Facility?

“Found in a shelter/rescue group or municipal animal facility” was not included as an option for a specific type of location found. This was an oversight in creating the survey. Only 2% (9) of people selected the option, “found inside a public building,” and after reviewing the study results, I was only able to find 3 entries where a cat was found in a shelter and 1 found at a vet (1% total; unpublished data).

Effectiveness of Tattoos and Microchips for Finding Lost Cats

**Only 4 out of 6 people indicated that a tattoo was a primary method in recovering their cat. This method is listed as a “Most Effective Method” for finding a lost cat, but this outcome may be the result of a very small sample. Moreover, when I reviewed the results, I only found one case were the tattoo directly related to the cat being recovered AND this cat also had a microchip.

For 40 out of 86 microchipped cats (47%), participants selected that a microchip was “a primary method or resource that helped you the most” to find your cat. However, when I reviewed these survey entries, I found that only two (and possibly up to 6) people indicated that their cat was actually found due to a microchip being scanned (unpublished data). This suggests that people may have indicated what they thought were successful methods for finding a lost cat and not just what helped them find their missing cat.

Possible Bias in Distances Traveled and Deceased Cats Found

Only around 58% of lost cats were found (unpublished data). If cats were closer to home (or location lost), they were probably more likely to be found. Likewise living cats are probably easier to find than deceased cats. This may biases the results for distances traveled by lost cats and proportion of cats found deceased. The 42% of cats not found might have traveled farther away or could be deceased both of which would make them harder to find. The longer a cat is lost, the more likely they are to be adopted by a new family (remember 20% of people adopted their cat as a stray). Other lost cats might eventually be integrated into the feral population or brought to a shelter or rescue group after their owner has stopped looking. If these cat don’t have a registered and up-to-date microchip, they will never be reunited with their families. Interestingly, anecdotal evidence from microchipped cats found months to years after they go missing shows that many lost cats are still within 1 mile of their home when found.

Bias of Survey Respondents – Mostly Cat-Loving People that Lived in the Suburbs

The results of this study may be skewed by the characteristics and demographics of the people that completed the study. Nearly 90% of survey respondents strongly agreed with statements that they were attached to their cat and regarded them as a family member. People with a stronger human-pet bond might search more thoroughly and longer then the general population. Most cats (77%) lived in a house, townhouse, or condo with a yard/garden. Therefore, the results of this study pertain mostly to cats lost by people that currently live in this type of location/dwelling.

Possible Errors in Recall from Survey Respondents

While 50% of respondents had lost their cat in the last two years. The range was 4 days (5th percentile) to 14 years (95th percentile) ago. This likely led to some recall errors which may have effected the results of the study.

Errors in Paper Results and Discussion

Most Successful Search Strategies

When reviewing the research paper recently, I noticed an apparent error that had been overlooked. In the results section, it states “Relative to other methods or waiting, the most rapid relative times taken to find the cat alive using a physical search strategy were when the search methods included ‘spoke with neighbors and asked them to look or assist in the search for my cat’, ‘walked around the area at night, using a flashlight (or spotlight)’, ‘asked and received neighbors’ permission to search their property using a slow methodical search’ and ‘searched my yard or the immediate area’.” However, in the discussion section, it states “More specifically, the most successful physical search strategies were ‘searched my yard and the immediate area’, ‘while I was looking for my cats, I called its name’, ‘walked around the area during daylight hours’ and ‘spoke with neighbors and asked them to look or assist in the search for my cat’.” Based on Table 5, the latter methods are in fact the most common search methods and not the most successful. In fact, two of these (italicized above) were among the least successful search strategies.

Missing Data on Search Dogs

Table 5 of the published study states that no one used a trained search dog. However, when I reviewed the unpublished data, I found 41 people used search dogs. Of those that used search dogs, 54% of cats were found alive, 5% were found dead, and 41% were not found. This does not mean that the search dogs found 54% of lost cats. It only means that in 54% of the cases were a search dog was used, the cat was eventually found alive. So unfortunately (do to this error), the study does not tell us anything about the perceived effectiveness of search dogs.

Literature Reviewed

Liyan Huang, Marcia Coradini, Jacquie Rand, John Morton, Kat Albrecht, Brigid Wasson, and Danielle Robertson. 2018. Search Methods Used to Locate Missing Cats and Locations Where Missing Cats Are Found. Animals 8(1): 5.

The post Review of “Search Methods Used to Locate Missing Cats and Locations Where Missing Cats Are Found” appeared first on Lost Pet Research and Recovery.

Best Humane Cat Traps

Danielle Robertson — Tue, 26 Jun 2018 20:44:13 +0000

Trapping with a humane cage trap is one of the most effective methods for catching an escaped indoor-only cat or displaced (lost away from home) outdoor-access cat. However, it is very important to select the right cat trap and set it up, bait it, and monitor it properly. The wrong trap may injure your cat or allow them to escape, and once they have had a bad experience with a trap, they may be much more difficult to trap again.

Below are a few of the best designed cat traps as well as some more affordable traps that still work well. I've also added more information on traps to avoid and why.

Table of Contents

Important tips on selecting a humane cat trap

Tru Catch Cat Traps

Pros

Cons

Where to Buy Tru Catch Cat Traps

Tomahawk Cat Traps

Pros

Cons

Where to Buy Tomahawk Cat Traps

If You Need a Trap Soon ...

Important tips on selecting a humane cat trap

Most important: make sure that the trap you select is big enough! Your cat’s entire body should fit inside the trap before they step on the trip plate (i.e. the trigger that closes the door). If the trap is too small, the trap door may close on your cat’s back end and allow them to escape. In general, cats are also more comfortable entering traps with larger entrances.
Pick a cat trap made of quality materials. It may be tempting to buy a cheap trap, but these are more likely to bend or break. Cats can squeeze out of very small spaces and raccoons can bend cheap metal in attempts to escape. Expect to pay $50-$150 for a decent trap. I do not recommend some of the really cheap traps on Amazon.com or those often sold at discount hardware stores like Tractor Supply or Harbor Freight Tools.
Not a necessity, but a sliding rear release door makes baiting the trap and releasing wildlife so much easier. However, I generally do not recommend a trap with two trap doors (e.g. some Havahart traps).

Tru Catch Cat Traps

Tru Catch has several of the best all around cat traps. Their unique design includes a quiet gravity door, an extra-large trip plate, and a variable trigger. I prefer models 30FCD and 36D. These traps have a larger (12" x 14") entrance that cats usually enter more readily.

All models include a large trip plate, which increases capture rates. Typical small trip plates may allow the cat to eat the bait and not set off the trap. The variable trigger mechanism can be set for either light or heavy cats. However, I have found that cats under 10 lbs may not reliably set off the 36D.

The sliding rear door makes adding bait easy and allows easy release of wildlife. Wildlife can also be released using the front door using the automatic door release mechanism; if you roll the trap upside down with your foot, the front door will automatically open. (This method is not recommended for releasing skunks!)

Pros

Cats are more likely to enter the larger entrance of 36D and 30FCD (12”x14” compared to 9”x11” for typical cat trap).
Extra-long 36D (36”) trap ensures that your entire cat is inside the trap before they step on the trip plate. This results in fewer escapes.
Door shuts quietly, so cats don’t often realize they are being trapped until it is too late to escape.
Includes “tail gap” so it won’t pinch cat’s tail when it shuts.
Extra-large trip plate prevents cats from stepping over the trip plate to get at bait. Results in more captures.
Easy to add bait using rear door.
Easy to release wildlife using rear door or automatic door release.
Made of high-quality materials and built to last.

Cons

Generally not available in stores. Often requires online ordering.
Front door can open accidentally if trap is rolled upside down. This can be prevented by proper securing of trap using a cable lock.
Trigger setting mechanism can be slippery (trap will set off too easily) and may need some (easy) modification to work correctly.
Sliding rear door does not have a latch and can accidentally open. However, this issue can be resolved with a clip or carabiner.
36D is a heavier trap at 15.7 lbs.
36D may not trigger for small cats (under 10 lbs).

Where to Buy Tru Catch Cat Traps

Tru Catch traps are available on TruCatch.com as well as some wildlife control stores like ACES and Wildlife Control Supplies. Unfortunately, Tru Catch traps are sometimes sold out or on back order due to their high demand so you may need to shop around. My favorites are the 36D Classic Deluxe and the 30FCD Fat Cat, which is similar to the 36D but only 30" long.

Tru Catch traps are sometimes available on Amazon.com. The 30LTD is good for small cats since it has a small entrance at only 9" x 11". The Tuffy 24 is a kitten trap and doesn't have a rear release door.

Tru Catch 30FCD Fat Cat Humane Live Animal Trap - Easy & Safe Catch & Release...

Tru Catch 30LTD Humane Live Animal Trap - Easy & Safe Catch & Release for Cats...

Gravity Style Door

Sliding Rear Door

30"L x 14"H x 12"W

30"L x 9"W x 11"H

Price not available

$125.00

Buy on Amazon

Tru Catch 30FCD Fat Cat Humane Live Animal Trap - Easy & Safe Catch & Release...

Gravity Style Door

Sliding Rear Door

30"L x 14"H x 12"W

Price not available

Buy on Amazon

Tru Catch 30LTD Humane Live Animal Trap - Easy & Safe Catch & Release for Cats...

Gravity Style Door

Sliding Rear Door

30"L x 9"W x 11"H

$125.00

Buy on Amazon

Last update on 2026-11-04 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Tomahawk Cat Traps

Tomahawk has partnered with several Trap-Neuter-Return feral cat groups to design humane traps that maximize capture of cats. The primary feature that sets these traps apart from similar humane traps is the large trip plate. With the smaller, more traditional, trip plates, a trap savvy cat can easily step over the trip plate, eat all the bait, and then exit the trap without getting caught.

Tomahawk offers traps in multiple sizes including some with gravity doors, which are quieter. In general, cats are more likely to enter traps with larger entrances. Likewise, longer traps decrease the chance of escape since the cat has to be farther inside before the trap is triggered. These latter features are most important with larger cats over 12 lbs.

Pros

Door locks when closed preventing escape.
Easy-to-set trigger mechanism.
Cats are more likely to enter the larger entrance on some models.
Has models available in extra-long (36”). This ensures that the entire cat is inside the trap before they step on the trip plate. This results in fewer escapes.
Large trip plate reduces the chance that the cat will step over the trip plate to get at bait. Results in more captures.
Easy to add bait using rear door.
Easy to release wildlife using rear door.
Made of high-quality materials and built to last.
Now offers some models with quiet gravity doors.
Lighter traps than Tru Catch.

Cons

Generally not available in stores. Often requires online ordering.
May have long shipping times.
Trip plate is smaller than Tru Catch traps and some cats may manage to get the bait without setting off the trap.
Spring-loaded trap door on some models shuts loudly and may scare the trapped cat and any cats nearby.

Where to Buy Tomahawk Cat Traps

Tomahawk traps are available on their website: Livetrap.com as well as some wildlife control stores like ACES and Wildlife Control Supplies. I would recommend either GT608 or 608NC, especially for larger cats over 12 lbs. You can also find some models available on Amazon.com.

Tomahawk Model GT606 - Neighborhood Cats Gravity Trap with Non-Spring Loaded...

Tomahawk Model GT608 Gravity Trap with Easy Release Door

Tomahawk Live Trap - Model 606NC - Tomahawk TNR Series Neighborhood Cats Trap...

Tomahawk Live Trap - Model 608NC - Tomahawk TNR Series Neighborhood Cats Trap...

Gravity Style Door

Spring-loaded Door

Sliding Rear Door

30"L x 9"W x 11"H

36"L x 12"W x 12"H

30"L x 10"W x 12"H

36"L x 10"W x 12"H

Price not available

$140.00

Buy on Amazon

Tomahawk Model GT606 - Neighborhood Cats Gravity Trap with Non-Spring Loaded...

Gravity Style Door

Sliding Rear Door

30"L x 9"W x 11"H

Price not available

Buy on Amazon

Tomahawk Model GT608 Gravity Trap with Easy Release Door

Gravity Style Door

Sliding Rear Door

36"L x 12"W x 12"H

Price not available

Buy on Amazon

Tomahawk Live Trap - Model 606NC - Tomahawk TNR Series Neighborhood Cats Trap...

Spring-loaded Door

Sliding Rear Door

30"L x 10"W x 12"H

Price not available

Buy on Amazon

Tomahawk Live Trap - Model 608NC - Tomahawk TNR Series Neighborhood Cats Trap...

Spring-loaded Door

Sliding Rear Door

36"L x 10"W x 12"H

$140.00

Buy on Amazon

Last update on 2026-11-04 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

If You Need a Trap Soon ...

The best cat traps are often only available online and may take a week or more to arrive. If you are in a hurry and can't find one of the best traps, these cat traps may be your best option. You could also try renting or borrowing a trap from a local shelter, rescue group or even a friend, but make sure that it isn't too small!

Safeguard Traps

Safeguard makes some good quality wildlife traps. The only reason they aren't included along with the best traps is because they don't have any specifically designed for cats with a large trip plate or gravity door. You can find a list of some retailers here, and they are sometimes available at local feed and grain or small hardware stores.

Havahart Traps

If you need to locate a trap quickly, Havahart is one of the most popular brands available at many large hardware stores like Lowe’s or Home Depot. These are decent quality traps and many cats have been successfully caught with them. I recommend their large one-door traps such as the 1079 Model.

Pros

Spring-loaded door shuts quickly and locks to prevent escape.
Easy-to-set trigger mechanism.
Made of high-quality materials.
Easy to find and purchase from many hardware stores.
Generally costs less than Tru Catch or Tomahawk traps.

Cons

Small trip plate may allow some cats to get the bait without setting off the trap.
No sliding rear door, so it is more difficult to put bait in the back of the trap.
More difficult to release wildlife. Requires releasing lock and opening front door.
Trap door shuts loudly and may scare the trapped cat and any cats nearby.

Where to Buy a Havahart Trap

Havahart traps are often available at hardware stores like Lowe’s and Home Depot. They are also often available on Amazon.com. If you don't get the 1079 model I would recommend one that is rated for raccoons or at least 32L x 10W x 12H.

The Easy Set Havahart Trap is another option, but I have seen more cats escape from this model. The door doesn't always fully close, especially if it catches on bedding placed in the trap. It is also more difficult to cover or camouflage since the trigger mechanism is on the top. I've seen many people cover the trap with a towel and inadvertently prevent the trap from closing.

In general, I do not recommend the 2-door style Havahart traps. Cats can often enter these traps and eat the food without triggering the trap. The distance between the trip-plate and trap door is also very short. This increases the chances of the cat being injured or escaping.

Trapping on a Budget

I would not recommend most traps under $50. However, I own several Humane Way folding cat traps, which have caught many lost cats. They are on the smaller side (32L x 10W x 12H) so I prefer them for cats under 12 lbs. They are not as durable as the other traps mentioned, and about half of my traps no longer work properly after 10+ years of use. I've never had a cat escape these traps, but sometimes they eat the food without triggering the trap. The traps I own are similar to this one on Amazon.com, but mine have a rear release door.

Humane Way Folding 32 Inch Live Humane Animal Trap - Safe Traps for All Animals...

Gravity Style Door

No Sliding Rear Door

32"L x 10"H x 12"W

Price not available

Buy on Amazon

Humane Way Folding 32 Inch Live Humane Animal Trap - Safe Traps for All Animals...

Gravity Style Door

No Sliding Rear Door

32"L x 10"H x 12"W

Price not available

Buy on Amazon

Last update on 2026-11-04 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Traps to Avoid

Be very careful when buying cheaper traps such as the many off-brand humane traps on Amazon.com or the cheaper traps at stores like Harbor Freight Tools or Tractor Supply Company. These traps are often made of cheap materials that will bend and allow a cat to escape. Cats can squeeze through some incredibly small spaces if they are sufficiently motivated.

This video shows a feral cat escaping from a low quality trap. It took the cat only 3 minutes to escape. I had a similar experience with a trap from Harbor Freight. If buying an off-brand trap, check for gaps and flexibility before purchasing.

Some people use dog traps for catching a lost cat. These can work as long as the trip plate doesn't require much weight. However, if there is a gap next to the door, a cat may escape. I had a cat escape from a Humane Way folding dog trap, so be careful.

When it comes to Havahart traps, I'm not a huge fan of the1-Door Easy Set model. I have seen more cats escape from these because the door doesn't always fully close. If you use an Easy Set trap, be sure to test the trap after setting it up. Make sure that the door closes and locks.

I also don't recommend the 2-door style Havahart traps. Cats can often enter these traps and eat the food without triggering the trap. The distance between the trip-plate and trap door is also very short. This increases the chances of the cat being injured or escaping.

The post Best Humane Cat Traps appeared first on Lost Pet Research and Recovery.

Research Studies on Lost Pet Behavior and Recovery

Danielle Robertson — Sat, 06 Jan 2018 00:45:00 +0000

Unfortunately, there are few research studies on lost pet behavior. This is a list of citations and abstracts of published research papers related to lost pet behavior and recovery. There are links to a few of the papers. You may be able to find other papers by visiting your local college or university and checking their online journal databases.

Huang, L., M. Coradini, J. Rand, J. Morton, K. Albrecht, B. Wasson, and D. Robertson. 2018. Search methods used to locate missing cats and locations where missing cats are found. Animals 8(1), 5.

Abstract: Missing pet cats are often not found by their owners, with many being euthanized at shelters. This study aimed to describe times that lost cats were missing for, search methods associated with their recovery, locations where found and distances travelled. A retrospective case series was conducted where self-selected participants whose cat had gone missing provided data in an online questionnaire. Of the 1210 study cats, only 61% were found within one year, with 34% recovered alive by the owner within 7 days. Few cats were found alive after 90 days. There was evidence that physical searching increased the chance of finding the cat alive (p= 0.073), and 75% of cats were found within 500 m of the point of escape. Up to 75% of cats with outdoor access traveled 1609 m, further than the distance traveled by indoor-only cats (137 m; p < 0.001). Cats considered to be highly curious were more likely to be found inside someone else’s house compared to other personality types. These findings suggest that thorough physical searching is a useful strategy, and should be conducted within the first week after cats go missing. They also support further investigation into whether shelter, neuter and return programs improve the chance of owners recovering missing cats and decrease numbers of cats euthanized in shelters

Lord, L.K., W. Ingwerson, J.L. Gray and D.J. Wintz. 2009. Characterization of animals with microchips entering animal shelters. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association 235(2): 160-167.

Abstract: Objective: To characterize animals with microchips entering animal shelters and the process used to find owners. Design: Cross-sectional study. 7,704 microchipped animals entering 53 animal shelters between August 2007 and March 2008. Procedures: Data for animals with microchips were recorded by participating animal shelters and reported monthly. Results: Of 7,704 animals, strays accounted for slightly more than half (4,083 [53.0%]), with the remainder classified as owner-relinquished animals (3,225 [41.9%]) and other (396 [5.1%]). Of 3,425 stray animals for which animal shelters reported that the owner was found, a higher percentage of dog owners (2,191/2,956 [74.1%]) than cat owners (298/469 [63.5%]) was found. For 876 animals for which the owners could not be found, the main reasons were incorrect or disconnected telephone number (310 [35.4%]), owner did not return telephone calls or respond to a letter (213 [24.3%]), and animal was registered to another group (151 [17.2%]). Of 1,943 animals for which animal shelters contacted a microchip registry, 1,129 (58.1%) were registered in the database. Purebred neutered dogs whose owner information was in the shelter database registry or microchip registry had a higher likelihood that the owners would be found. Conclusions and Clinical Relevance: The high rate for return of microchipped dogs and cats to their owners supported microchipping as a valuable permanent pet identification modality; however, issues related to registration undermined its overall potential. Bundling of microchip implantation and registration, point-of-implantation data registration, use of annual compliance and update reminders, and providing access to all registries are potential solutions.

Lord, L.K., T.E. Wittum, A.K. Ferketich, J.A. Funk, and P.J. Rajala-Schultz. 2007. Search and identification methods that owners use to find a lost cat. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association 230(2): 217-220.

Lord, L.K., T.E. Wittum, A.K. Ferketich, J.A. Funk, and P.J. Rajala-Schultz. 2007. Search and identification methods that owners use to find a lost dog. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association 230(2): 211-216.

Lord, L.K., T.E. Wittum, A.K. Ferketich, J.A. Funk, and P.J. Rajala-Schultz. 2007. Search methods that people use to find owners of lost pets. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association 230(12): 1835-1840.

Abstract: Objective: To characterize the process by which people who find lost pets search for the owners. Design: Cross-sectional study. Sample Population-188 individuals who found a lost pet in Dayton, Ohio, between March 1 and June 30, 2006. Procedures-Potential participants were identified as a result of contact with a local animal agency or placement of an advertisement in the local newspaper. A telephone survey was conducted to identify methods participants used to find the pets’ owners. Results: 156 of 188 (83%) individuals completed the survey. Fifty-nine of the 156 (38%) pets were reunited with their owners; median time to reunification was 2 days (range, 0.5 to 45 days). Only 1 (3%) cat owner was found, compared with 58 (46%) dog owners. Pet owners were found as a result of information provided by an animal agency (25%), placement of a newspaper advertisement (24%), walking the neighborhood (19%), signs in the neighborhood (15%), information on a pet tag (10%), and other methods (7%). Most finders (87%) considered it extremely important to find the owner, yet only 13 (8%) initially surrendered the found pet to an animal agency. The primary reason people did not surrender found pets was fear of euthanasia (57%). Only 97 (62%) individuals were aware they could run a found-pet advertisement in the newspaper at no charge, and only 1 person who was unaware of the no-charge policy placed an advertisement. Conclusions: Veterinarians and shelters can help educate people who find lost pets about methods to search for the pets’ owners.

L.K. Lord, B. Griffin, M.R. Slater, and J.K. Levy. 2010. Evaluation of collars and microchips for visual and permanent identification of pet cats. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association.

Abstract: Objective: To determine the percentage of pet cats still wearing collars and having functional microchips 6 months after application. Design: Randomized controlled clinical trial. Procedures: 538 client-owned cats were randomly assigned to wear 1 of 3 types of collars: plastic buckle, breakaway plastic buckle safety, and elastic stretch safety. Each cat was fitted with the assigned collar, and a microchip was inserted SC between the scapulae. Owners completed questionnaires about their experiences and expectations of collars at enrollment and at the conclusion of the study. Results: 391 of the 538 (72.7%) cats successfully wore their collars for the entire 6-month study period. Owners’ initial expectations of the cats’ tolerance of the collar and the number of times the collar was reapplied on the cats’ necks were the most important factors predicting success. Type of collar likely influenced how often collars needed to be reapplied. Eighteen (3.3%) cats caught a forelimb in their collar or caught their collar on an object or in their mouth. Of the 478 microchips that were scanned at the conclusion of the study, 477 (99.8%) were functional. Conclusions: Most cats successfully wore their collars. Because even house cats can become lost, veterinarians should recommend that all cats wear identification collars since they are the most obvious means of identifying an owned pet. For some cats, collars may frequently come off and become lost; therefore, microchips are an important form of backup identification. Owners should select a collar that their cat will tolerate and should check it often to ensure a proper fit.

Weiss, E. M. Slater, and L. Lord. 2012. Frequency of lost dogs and cats in the United States and the methods used to locate them. Animals 2: 301-315.

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Do Coyotes Carry Cats Back to their Den?

Danielle Robertson — Wed, 19 Apr 2017 15:55:48 +0000

Coyote pup exiting a well concealed den.

When a cat or small dog goes missing, pet owners/guardians are often concerned that s/he could have fallen prey to a coyote or other predator. As a pet detective for over ten years, I have often been asked the question: “Do coyotes carry cats back to their dens to eat them?” Of more concern, I’ve occasionally heard from people that a tracking dog team led them to a presumed predator den and they were told that the resident coyote (or fox or fisher) had killed their cat and taken it into the den. There is unfortunately a lot of misunderstanding and myth when it comes to coyote behavior.

Den Use by Coyotes

Coyotes actually only use dens when they are raising their pups and stop using them when the pups are 8-10 weeks old. “After that, even young pups generally sleep in the woods – even on nasty, rainy days” (Way 2012). The coyote breeding season runs from mid-January to early February (in Massachusetts), and the pups are born 60-66 days later in mid-March to early April (Way 2012). Several weeks before the pups are born, the coyote pair will excavate multiple possible den sites. If a den site is disturbed, the coyotes will move the pups to one of these other dens, and they will often move the pups every few weeks presumably to avoid parasites like fleas infesting the den (Parker 1995: 63-66).

While the pups are nursing, the female will make short excursions from the den for food and the male may also provide her with some food. Once the pups are 8-10 weeks old, the coyotes will move the pups to a rendezvous site. This is usually in an open area and near water.

Do Coyotes Bring Prey Back to their Dens?

Jonathan Way operates Eastern Coyote Research and has been studying coyotes in Massachusetts for more than ten years. There is a good article on his website on the “Eastern coyote/coywolf life cycle in southeastern Massachusetts,” which answers many commonly asked questions about coyote behavior. This is what he had to say about whether adult coyotes bring prey back to their dens.

“I have heard reports of dens surrounded by cat collars, cat remains, or deer fawns. However, all dens I have examined (over 20) have been devoid of prey. I believe this is an old wives tale to perpetuate the myth that coyotes/coywolves wipe out their prey supply, or at the least are having an undesirable affect on our local wildlife (or pets). Adults regularly clean dens by doing things like eating pup feces and regurgitate most food to the pups during this time” (Way 2012).

For more information on coyote denning behavior, I would recommend reading Way’s (2001) study on “Eastern coyote denning behavior in an anthropogenic environment.” Other research presented in Eastern Coyote: The Story of Its Success (Parker 1995) found similar cases of clean coyote dens:

South Dakota – “There are seldom excessive tracks or any large accumulation of food remains around a den as would be expected if the den were used [for] several weeks” (Gier 1957).
Maine – “Active dens were devoid of prey remains and adult scats, similar to observations [of dens] in Missouri” (Harrison and Gilbert 1985; Hallett 1977).
Wisconsin – “Unlike foxes, coyotes remove bones, scats, and other debris from the den site” (Fruth 1986).

Conclusions

A coyote is most likely to carry its prey a minimum distance from the kill site before consuming. Unless the location is perceived as unsafe by the coyote, carrying prey, especially a 10 lb cat, is a waste of energy. If they need to bring prey to their mate or pups, they will usually consume the edible parts, carry the food in their stomach, and then regurgitate it at the den or rendezvous site. If they don’t need to share their food, uneaten prey remains are more likely to be cached (buried) for later consumption. From the research that I’ve read and my personal experience doing coyote research in Yellowstone, it is highly unlikely that a coyote would carry a cat or other large prey item into the den to consume. On one occasion, I observed a coyote in Yellowstone carrying the legs of a pronghorn fawn, back to the den area. When we later surveyed the coyote den sites in the park, I found some scat, bones and pieces of hide near the dens. However, at least in areas where coyotes are hunted, they seem to keep the den area cleaned of prey remains.

In contrast to coyotes, I found in preliminary research on bobcats, foxes and fishers that these species are more likely to bring prey back to their den. Bobcats and fishers may even bring the prey into their den to consume.

Literature Cited

Fruth, K. 1986. The coyote (Canis latrans). Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources, Bureau of Wildlife Management PUBL-WM-148. 1.

Gier, H.T. 1957. Coyotes in Kansas. Kansas Agricultural Experimental Station Bulletin 393: 254.

Hallett, D.L. 1977. Post-natal mortality, movements, and den sites of Missouri Coyotes. M.Sc. thesis University of Missouri, Columbia.

Harrison, D.J. and J.R. Gilbert. 1985. Denning ecology and movements of coyotes in Maine during pup rearing.” Journal of Mammalogy 66: 714.

Parker, Gary. 1995. Eastern Coyote: The Story of Its Success. Halifax, N.S.: Nimbus Publishing Limited.

Way, J.G. 2012. Eastern coyote/coywolf life cycle in southeastern Massachusetts and some commonly asked questions. Eastern Coyote Research Publications 4: 1-5. URL: http://www.easterncoyoteresearch.com/downloads/EasternCoyoteLifeCycle.pdf

Way, J. G, P. J. Auger, I. M. Ortega, and E. G. Strauss. 2001. Eastern coyote denning behavior in an anthropogenic environment. Northeast Wildlife 56: 18-30.

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