Lost Pet Research and Recovery

How to Select the Best Dog GPS Tracker

Danielle Robertson — Tue, 29 Jul 2025 19:00:15 +0000

This is not your typical dog GPS tracker comparison article or review. I have been involved in lost pet recovery work since 2009, and, yes, I will recommend what I believe are the best dog GPS trackers on the market today. But there is no best tracker that I recommend for every dog.

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The best GPS tracker for your dog will depend on a number of factors including:

Your dog: what size are they and what type of tracker and collar will work for them?
Your dog's behavior: why are they likely to go missing and how easy will it be to catch them once located?
Your behavior: how good are you at remembering to keep your tracker charged?
Your budget: what can you afford? There is the cost of the tracker and an annual subscription fee.
Your phone: does the tracker app get good reviews for your operating system?
Your location: what cell coverage do you have where you live and travel with your dog?

Based on my research and discussions with other lost pet specialists, the best dog GPS trackers in the US are Fi, Tractive and Whistle. So I tested out all three. I have been using Fi Series 3 on my new dog for six months and I used Whistle (and formerly Tagg) on my last dog for many years. I've also used an older version of Tractive on my cats.

I tested Fi Series 3, Tractive Dog 6 and Whistle Go Explore 2.0. During my testing, Fi introduced a new collar, the Fi Series 3+, which has some new AI features, but most tracking features are similar to the Series 3. Right before I published this article, Whistle announced that it had been bought out by Tractive and they were discontinuing all Whistle trackers. If you currently have a Whistle tracker, you can receive a free Tractive device and pro-rated subscription if you request it before September 30, 2025. Learn more here.

Use this article to help determine what is probably the best tracker for you, but in the end you will need to test the tracker out. I will provide some testing instructions and results of my own tests at the end of this article. Fortunately, all three of these trackers should have a 30 day satisfaction guarantee return policy. Be aware that you may need to purchase the tracker directly from their site and be sure to check out their current return policy.

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Dog Size and GPS Tracker Design

To find the best GPS tracker for your dog, the first factors to consider are the size and design of the tracker. GPS trackers can be bulky so you want to make sure that you get one that isn't too big for your dog. However, larger trackers tend to have a longer battery life, which is one of the most important features of a GPS tracker.

Dog size and trackers available

Small Dogs

5 lbs and up. The only tracker advertised for really small dogs is the Whistle Switch. But the Tractive version for cats is advertised for 6.6 lbs and up.
10 lbs and up. Fi Series 3+ or Tractive Dog 6. Whistle Go Explore 2.0 is advertised as best for dogs 25 lbs and up, but the tracker is actually smaller and lighter than the Tractive Dog 6.

Medium Dogs

If your dog is between 25 and 50 lbs, you can use most trackers available including Fi Series 3+, Whistle Go Explore 2.0, Whistle Switch and Tractive Dog 6.

Large Dogs

If your dog is 50 lbs or larger, you have the largest selection of GPS trackers including Fi Series 3+, Whistle Go Explore 2.0, Whistle Switch (up to 75 lbs) and Tractive Dog 6.
In addition, Tractive has two versions for dogs over 50 lbs: the Tractive Dog XL and Tractive Dog XL Adventure.

Extra Large Dogs

XL dogs can use most trackers (see Large Dogs above) except Whistle Switch, which maxes out at 75 lbs.

Dog GPS tracker design and collars

Dog GPS collars generally come in two designs: those that are integrated into the collar, and those that will attach to most collars. In general, the integrated GPS collars like Fi and Whistle Switch are smaller and less bulky.

Australian Cattle Dog (35 lbs) wearing Fi 3 with medium collar.

The Fi Series 3 (and new 3+) is the lightest (around 1 oz.), smallest dog GPS tracker that I tested. It also had the longest battery life. The only thing I did not love about Fi is that the collar that comes with the tracker is very heavy duty. This is great for larger dogs, but it looked uncomfortably large on my small (35 lb) Australian Cattle Dog. However, I have since learned that other companies sell collars and harnesses that are compatible with Fi trackers.

The only other issue that I had with the Fi collar is that you have to make it quite snug or your dog could pull the collar off if they got really scared. Obviously this depends on the size and shape of your dog's head and neck. For a skittish dog, I would recommend walking the dog with a separate martingale collar or opting for a tracker that will attach to a martingale collar.

Australian Cattle Dog (35 lbs) wearing Tractive (front) and Whistle (left side) GPS trackers.

The Tractive Dog 6 (1.4 oz.) and Whistle Go Explore (1.3 oz.) are larger and bulkier than the Fi Series 3. These trackers can attach to most collars. If you have a favorite collar already, these may be the way to go. The only downside is that the tracker could get pulled off the collar if your dog wrestles with other dogs or runs loose through the woods. This did not seem common, but I saw a few complaints in reviews. In my testing, I preferred the design of the Whistle attachment which seemed more secure, but was also easy to remove for charging.

Waterproof rating and durability

Other factors to consider, depending on your dog, are the waterproof rating and durability of the tracker. All the trackers had the same level of waterproof rating (IPX8 for Whistle and IP68 for Tractive). Only the Fi 3+ had an IP68 +66K rating, which includes protection against high speed jets of water.

The Fi 3 (and 3+) trackers are made of a stainless steel case and band attachment. The Tractive Dog 6 and Tractive Dog XL Adventure advertise a "bite-proof" fiberglass casing. The Tractive Dog XL and Whistle trackers appear to be made of a hard plastic.

The Importance of Battery Life

Once you know what trackers will fit your dog, the most important factors to consider are:

Battery life. How long does the battery typically last, and perhaps more important, how long does it last when in Lost Dog Mode?
Connectivity. Does the tracker have good cell coverage where you live and travel with your dog?
Accuracy. Does the tracker quickly connect and provide accurate locations of your dog, especially in Lost Dog Mode?

Long battery life is so important because if your dog ever really goes missing, you will need to turn on Lost Dog Mode (aka LIVE mode or Find My Pet). When in Lost Dog Mode the tracker will take more frequent locations and this will drain the battery very quickly, perhaps within hours and at most a couple of days.

Long battery life is most important if ...

Battery life is most important if your dog is skittish, has phobias, or is newly adopted because they can take longer to catch when they go missing. When a skittish or panicked dog goes missing, they often enter "survival mode" and are likely to run from everyone and not even respond to their owner's voice. If you understand lost dog behavior, you may be able to lure your dog to you with calming signals. But many skittish and/or newly adopted dogs need to be caught using surveillance technology and a humane trap (or enclosure trap). Trapping a skittish lost dog can take days or even weeks even if you know where your dog is located.

IMPORTANT! If you have a skittish dog or one with phobias (such as fear of loud noises), make sure that you understand lost dog behavior before your dog goes missing. If you use your GPS to find your lost dog and approach them directly or call to them, you are likely to scare them away. If you keep doing this, you will probably drain your dog's GPS battery without catching them. There is also the risk that you might scare them out of a safe area and into somewhere dangerous such as a busy road.

Some trackers, like Tractive, also have a sound locating feature. If you have a skittish lost dog, NEVER use the sound feature to try and locate your dog. This is likely to scare them and cause them to run away.

Some skittish or panicked dogs can be caught without a humane trap, but you need to know what you are doing. In particular, you may be able to use calming signals to get your lost dog to approach you. Learn more about lost dog behavior and calming signals here.

Once you have located your lost dog, turn off Lost Dog Mode to preserve battery life and try calming signals to get them to approach you. If this does not work, keep Lost Dog Mode off (unless your dog is in a dangerous area) to preserve battery life as long as possible. Contact a pet detective or other lost pet specialist as soon as possible for professional advice and/or on-site help to maximize the chance of catching your dog quickly.

Longer battery life is also helpful if you are someone who probably won't remember to charge the tracker regularly. I have had many calls about lost dogs and cats wearing GPS trackers that weren't charged when the pet went missing.

Long battery life is less important if ...

If your dog is easy to catch once located, then battery life is somewhat less important. These are usually confident, friendly or even aloof dogs. These dogs are more likely to go missing because they get out of the yard to explore or they take off after wildlife while on a hike. Most important, they are off having a good time and aren't scared.

That said, even an otherwise friendly, confident dog may go into survival mode if they experience a traumatic event. For example, if they are attacked by another dog or are in a car accident.

Types of battery life to consider

Whether you decide to try one of the dog GPS trackers that I recommend or another tracker you find on the internet, make sure to check the stated battery life. There are numerous factors that impact battery life so there's no definite answer. Most trackers will state a battery life up to a certain number of days, weeks or months. This may indicate estimated typical battery life or maximum battery life.

Maximum battery life. Most trackers use Wi-Fi when at home and allow you to set up one or more Safe Zones. If your dog primarily stays within Wi-Fi range, the tracker battery will last the longest because it is not using power to connect to satellites or send cellular data.
Typical battery life. This will be unique to your dog and depend on how active they are, where you live, and the amount of time spent outside their Safe Zone. In particular, if you spend a lot of time traveling away from home, your average battery life will be a lot lower. Once you get your tracker, you should keep track of how long the battery tends to last for your dog.
Battery life in Lost Dog Mode. When set to Lost Dog Mode (aka LIVE Mode or Find My Pet), the tracker will increase the frequency of location updates. This will drain the battery much more quickly.

Other factors that can impact battery life include cellular coverage, GPS availability, and temperature. Poor cell coverage will use more battery. The GPS connects most easily outdoors and under a clear sky. If your dog is indoors (and not in a Safe Zone), the tracker will use more power trying to connect to GPS. In general batteries drain more quickly in very cold or hot temperatures.

Battery Life Comparison

GPS Tracker	Stated Battery Life	Battery Life While Traveling*
Fi 3 and 3+	up to 3 months	1-3 weeks
Whistle Go Explore 2.0	15 days	could not find
Whistle Switch	average 15 days	could not find
Tractive Cat	up to 7 days	2 days
Tractive Dog 6	up to 14 days	up to 6 days
Tractive Dog XL	up to 1 month	5-15 days
Tractive Dog XL Adventure	up to 1 month	5-15 days

Table 1: Battery life comparison for Fi, Whistle and Tractive GPS trackers. *While Traveling means away from the base station, Wi-Fi and/or Safe Zones.

Most companies did not want to state or speculate on battery life in Lost Dog Mode. This is unfortunate since this is arguably the most important number. Fi 3 has an estimated battery life of up to 2 days when in Lost Dog Mode on a fully charged device.

Battery Life Testing Results

I tested typical battery life for the Fi Series 3, Whistle Go Explore 2.0 and Tractive Dog 6. Keep in mind that my test is only really accurate for my location (Pioneer Valley of western Massachusetts), my dog's activity, my traveling, and my phone (Samsung Android on AT&T).

Figure 1: Battery life test of Fi 3, Whistle Go Explore 2.0 and Tractive Dog 6 at home.

A few notes on my testing. The first day I was away from home for 12+ hours. The drop in battery life on 5/28, 29 and 31 was due to increased testing of Lost Dog Mode. All other days, my dog was at home and included 2 to 4 hours away from home each day. Whistle was set to Standard Location Alert Frequency.

I conducted one battery life test for Fi 3 and Tractive Dog 6 while on a five day camping trip. When traveling, you should expect more variability in battery life. The battery will drain more quickly if you are driving, your dog is very active or you are in an area with poor cell service.

Figure 2: Battery life test of Fi 3 and Tractive Dog 6 while camping.

A few notes on my testing. On the first and last day I was driving for 1 to 1.5 hours. I was camping in an area with good cell reception. I didn't do any Lost Dog Mode testing so this is just default tracking mode drain on the battery when away from home. Tractive drained pretty consistently around 19% per day. Fi averaged 12% drain per day, but had more variability. Fi only drained around 8% on days at the campground, but the battery dropped 11 to 20% on days with driving.

These charts are most useful as a comparison in battery life between the GPS trackers, but even that may be different for you depending on where you live. In particular, cell service could have a big impact on battery life. Fi and Whistle rely on AT&T while Tractive uses AT&T, Verizon and T-Mobile LTE networks in the US.

I am still testing how quickly the battery will drain in Lost Dog Mode. I will update this article after more testing.

Battery Life Testing Suggestions

Once you get a tracker, you should keep track of your average battery life. Compare your results to the Battery Life Comparison Table (1). Also if possible, try taking your dog to any areas farther from home that you occasionally visit. See how quickly your battery drains on these trips. Lastly, try running Lost Dog Mode for at least 15 to 30 minutes somewhere that you regularly take your dog. How quickly does the battery drain? You can do this while walking your dog if you turn off Bluetooth on your phone.

Personally, I would only suggest completely draining the battery once. After that, you can do most battery tests to 50% power so you don't risk having an empty tracker if your dog actually goes missing. In fact, I would recommend charging your tracker at 50% power or even more frequently as a general rule. It's great that some trackers will last for weeks before needing to be charged, but the battery will drain very quickly if you have to use Lost Dog Mode for any length of time. It's best to be prepared and have a charged battery, especially if you have a skittish or newly adopted dog.

Best Dog GPS Trackers for Battery Life

The Fi Series 3 and new 3+ have by far the best battery life. However, if you have a large dog over 50 lbs, the Tractive Dog XL and XL Adventure also have relatively long battery life.

Use this Referral Link to receive $20 off a Fi Series 3+ GPS collar and 1 month of free Fi Membership!

Table could not be displayed.

Cost of Dog GPS Trackers

With most GPS trackers, you need to purchase the tracker and then purchase a subscription plan. One exception is Fi, which has you purchase a membership plan and the collar is included. Overall, Tractive GPS trackers tend to be cheaper, and often have discount codes and sales. Tractive also has the largest variety of plans available.

Costs, of course, are subject to change, but here's a comparison of costs from June 2025 from the companies' websites. You may be able to get a lower annual cost by purchasing several years in advance. Only Fi offered a six month plan.

GPS Tracker	Cost of Tracker	Cost of Annual Subscription	Total First Year*
Fi 3+	free with initial subscription	$189	$189
Whistle Go Explore 2.0	$129	$99	$228
Whistle Switch	$149	$99	$248
Tractive Cat	$49	$108 - $120	$157 - 169
Tractive Dog 6	$69	$108 - $120	$177 - 189
Tractive Dog XL	$69	$108 - $120	$177 - 189
Tractive Dog XL Adventure	$99	$108 - $120	$207 - 219

Table 2: Cost comparison of Fi, Whistle and Tractive GPS trackers. *The total for the first year includes the cost of the tracker and a one year subscription. After the first year, you will only need to pay for the subscription until your tracker breaks, gets lost or you want to upgrade. Fi offered me an upgrade to the Fi Series 3+ for $99.

When considering costs, you may also want to check the company's current warranty. How long is it and what does it cover? As of June 2025, Fi was offering a lifetime warranty with active membership. Whistle only offered a six month warranty, and Tractive offered a two year warranty. In addition they also offered Tractive Care for $24 annually, which may provide you with a free or discounted tracker if yours is lost, damaged or stolen.

Check the Ratings of the Tracker App

Most dog GPS trackers work with an app on your cell phone. Before selecting a tracker, take a quick look at the app ratings for your phone operating system. I had a lot of issues while testing the Whistle Go Explore 2.0. It's likely this was partly due to the Whistle app that I was using. I have an Android phone and in Google Play, the Whistle app only had 2.1 stars, but it had 4.6 stars in the Apple App Store.

Will the Tracker Work Where You Live and Travel?

The last factor to check before purchasing a dog GPS tracker is whether it is likely to work where you live and travel with your dog. Dog GPS trackers work by getting a location via satellites and then sending that location to your cell phone app using cellular data and/or Bluetooth. In order to receive that location, both the GPS tracker and your phone need cell coverage. Your phone can also work via Wi-Fi, but this will make tracking your dog much more difficult since you will need to stay in the Wi-Fi zone.

Fi and Whistle both use AT&T's LTE-M network. The LTE-M network is a low-power, long-distance cellular network that reaches farther than conventional networks like 3G, 4G, 5G, and LTE. Fi only works in the US (including Puerto Rico and the USVI according to their support page). Whistle only works in the US and possibly parts of Canada with good AT&T coverage. You can check AT&T's coverage map here.

Tractive uses AT&T, Verizon and T-Mobile LTE networks in the US. Tractive is also the one popular US tracker that works in many other countries. With over 500 partners around the world, their trackers can connect to 2G and/or LTE (CatM1) cell networks in over 175 countries. You can check Tractive coverage at your address here.

IMPORTANT! If you live or primarily travel somewhere without cell phone reception, the dog GPS trackers discussed here will not work. You will need to purchase a tracker that works without cellular service such as a Garmin Dog GPS system like this one. Alternatively, you could try a radio frequency (RF) tracker such as the Marco Polo Tracking System.

Garmin 010-01635-00 Astro 430/T 5 Dog Tracking Bundle

GPS Tracker

Price not available

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Garmin 010-01635-00 Astro 430/T 5 Dog Tracking Bundle

GPS Tracker

Price not available

Buy on Amazon

Last update on 2026-04-03 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Testing Tracker Connectivity and Accuracy

Once you have selected a dog GPS tracker based on design, battery life, cost, app ratings and cell coverage, you will need to buy and test the tracker. Fortunately, most trackers offer a 30-day satisfaction guarantee. Be sure to check out their current refund policy before purchasing. You may need to purchase directly from the company, and the 30 days may start at purchase or at activation.

Don't wait until your dog really goes missing to find out how well your tracker works! I tested out the Fi Series 3, Whistle Go Explore 2.0 and Tractive Dog 6. I'll share my experience, but how well your tracker works will really depend on where you live and travel.

Testing Safe Zone Alerts

Once you get your tracker, you should set up a Safe Zone (aka Power Saving Zone or Safe Place) right away. If your dog leaves this area, you will receive a notification on the tracker app. One important factor of a good GPS tracker is how quickly you get an alert that your dog has left their Safe Zone. This is also one way to get an idea of your connectivity.

Try taking your dog for a walk and record how long it takes before you get a notification that they have left their Safe Zone. Do this at least several times on different days to get an average. If you can't walk where you live, you can also drive, but the important factor to measure is time and not distance.

Results of my Safe Zone tests

I tested the Fi Series 3, Tractive Dog 6, and Whistle Go Explore 2.0. I live in an area with good cell phone coverage. Fi and Tractive were generally fastest around 2 minutes (median) with Whistle lagging a little behind at 4 minutes. However, in 2 of 13 tests (15%), Fi took over 10 minutes to send an alert.

GPS Tracker	Mean	Median	Range
Fi 3	4	2	1 to 12
Tractive Dog 6	3	2	2 to 5
Whistle Go Explore 2.0	4	4	3 to 6

Table 3: Test of Safe Zone alerts for dog GPS trackers. Shows the number of minutes before a notification was received that the dog had left the Safe Zone.

The Whistle app allows you to change Location Alert Frequency between Frequent (escape alerts every 1 to 3 minutes), Standard (escape alerts every 3 to 6 minutes), and Saver (escape alerts every 6 to 12 minutes). During these tests, Whistle was set to Standard Location Alert Frequency. The more frequently locations are taken, the shorter the battery life.

Testing Connectivity

Next you want to check connectivity both near your home and at locations that you frequently travel with your dog. In order to test connectivity, you need to be outside, away from your Safe Zone, and more than 30 feet away from your dog (beyond Bluetooth range). If you don't have a helper to hold your dog, you can just test with the collar. Alternatively, you can temporarily disable Bluetooth on your phone, but the app needs to think that you and your dog are separated.

Once you are away from your dog (or just the GPS tracker), check the current location in the tracker app. If you are using Fi or Tractive, you will probably have an up-to-date location if there is any cellular coverage. Whistle updates locations less frequently so it may show an old location. Then turn on Lost Dog Mode (aka LIVE Mode or Find My Pet) and measure how long it takes the tracker to connect and the app to provide an updated location. This test can be done as part of the Lost Dog Mode test or you can end here. Be sure to turn off Lost Dog Mode when done so you don't drain the battery.

Fi also has a method to test GPS and LTE-M connectivity built into the app. For step-by-step instructions, check out their support page.

Tractive has a method to check network and GPS connection built into the tracker itself. For instructions for the Tractive Dog 6, check out their support page. There's also a link from their page for other Tractive models.

Results of my connectivity tests

I tested the Fi Series 3, Tractive Dog 6, and Whistle Go Explore 2.0. I live in an area with good cell phone coverage, but I also traveled to a few areas with spotty coverage.

GPS Tracker	Mean	Median	Range	Failures
Fi 3	1:25	1:15	0:10 to 4:00	0 of 9
Tractive Dog 6	0:14	0:15	0:10 to 0:18	1 of 7
Whistle Go Explore 2.0	3:23	2:20	0:15 to 9:30	1 of 7

Table 4: Connectivity Test for dog GPS trackers. Number of minutes that it took the app to connect to the tracker and provide an updated location when Lost Dog Mode was turned on.

Tractive Dog 6 Test Results

The Tractive Dog 6 had by far the fastest connection speed with an average of 15 seconds. However, there was one test in rural Vermont with spotty cell coverage where it could not connect. It appears that Tractive will try to connect for about a minute before a pop up appears that states: "Connection Too Weak. Buildings or trees may be blocking coverage where your tracker is. Try again in a minute." I tried moving the tracker to another location that said my phone had service and was open to the sky, but it still would not connect.

Even though Tractive could not connect to Lost Dog Mode (called LIVE mode in Tractive), I was still getting some connection. Tractive accurately recorded our walk and other time spent in that area. So I could still get locations on my dog, but they were not updated as frequently. In default tracking mode, Tractive updates the location every 2 to 60 minutes depending on activity level of your dog. If your dog is moving, you will get more frequent updates. In Lost Dog Mode, Tractive updates locations every 2 to 3 seconds. You can learn more about the difference between Default Tracking and LIVE Mode here.

Tractive Dog 6 created an accurate track in an area with poor cell reception.

Fi Series 3 Test Results

The Fi Series 3 had a pretty consistent connection time of around 1 minute. The only time it took longer to connect to Lost Dog Mode was in a rural area of VT with spotty cell coverage. There it took 4 minutes to connect. Unlike Tractive, Fi will continue to attempt to connect to Lost Dog Mode for several minutes. If it cannot connect after 5 minutes, it gives you the option to cancel Lost Dog Mode.

Like Tractive, Fi also provided up-to-date locations in this area while in default tracking mode, but the walk recording was a little less accurate. When in default tracking mode, Fi updates locations around once every 5 minutes. In Lost Dog Mode, Fi provides "real-time" updates. I'm still testing this feature, but it seemed to provide location updates between 3 to 5 times per minute when moving depending on speed.

Fi 3 created a somewhat accurate track in an area with poor cell reception.

Whistle Go Explore 2.0 Test Results

The Whistle Go Explore 2.0 was more variable in connection time, but usually took several minutes (when set to Standard Location Alert Frequency). However, in one Lost Dog Test at home with good cell coverage, the Whistle never connected. This may have been an app failure because several hours later, the walk showed as recorded so it was connected, but was not sending notifications to the app. Due to overall poorer performance, I returned the Whistle prior to being able to test it in Vermont.

When in default tracking mode (vs. Lost Dog Mode), the Whistle Go Explore updated locations much less frequently. In multiple tests, Whistle took a location when my dog first left their Safe Zone, but then it didn't update a new location until I requested one manually. Therefore, I didn't have any tracking ability with Whistle unless it could connect in Lost Dog Mode.

It is possible that my infrequent location updates were an app failure. The Whistle app only had 2.1 stars in the Google app store when I tested it. I had Location Alert Frequency set to Standard, which should send location updates every 3 minutes. Therefore, I should have received location updates at least every 6 minutes according to their support page.

Testing Lost Dog Mode Speed and Accuracy

Finally, you should test your tracker in Lost Dog Mode to determine the speed and accuracy of locations once connected. Even if you have a well trained dog, I wouldn't recommend just releasing your dog in the woods and trying to find them. To find out how really accurate the GPS tracker is, you want to know exactly where your dog went and where the tracker app said that they went.

There are a few different ways to test out Lost Dog Mode. The best way is to have someone else walk your dog, put the tracker on their own dog or carry the tracker while you try to locate them. Then compare where they went with where the tracker recorded. Most important, how easy was it to find them? Fi provides step-by-step instructions on how to test Lost Dog Mode here. When testing with Tractive, you should set LIVE tracking duration to 30 or 60 minutes or it will turn off after 5 minutes (the default setting).

If you don't have someone to help you with the test, there are a few other options. Option 1: First turn off Bluetooth on your phone. Then turn on Lost Dog Mode, wait for it to connect and take your dog for a walk. After your walk, turn Lost Dog Mode off and check the Timeline (Fi) or History (Tractive) to see a recording of the walk. This will help you determine the accuracy and frequency of GPS locations. Fi provides step-by-step instructions on this method as well.

Option 2: Place the tracker somewhere where it won't be stolen (even in your car is okay), then test out Lost Dog Mode and see how accurate it is. This is a good way to test whether the tracker app accurately determines your location as well as the tracker's location. Because if you don't know where YOU are, it is really hard to find your dog.

The second option can also be used to test out the Bluetooth tracking feature, which is available on Tractive and Whistle. You have to be really close (usually within 30 feet) for Bluetooth to work, so this is most useful if your dog loses their tracker. Tractive also has a sound alert feature to help you pinpoint the location of a lost tracker.

Results of My Lost Dog Mode Tests

I tested the Fi Series 3, Tractive Dog 6, and Whistle Go Explore 2.0. These tests were conducted in areas with decent cell phone coverage.

Tractive Dog 6 Test Results

Tractive was the easiest to use and the most accurate. When using Lost Dog Mode (called LIVE mode in Tractive), the app shows your dog's location, your location and their path of travel. Tractive updates locations every 2-3 seconds in Lost Dog Mode so it provides a very detailed path of travel. The downside of course is that battery level drops quickly.

Once close, you can turn on Radar mode, which is the Bluetooth feature on Tractive. Since you have to be really close, Bluetooth probably isn't useful unless you are looking for a lost tracker. In this case, Tractive has the best features since Bluetooth will even work in the Safe Zone if your dog loses their tracker at home. There is also a sound feature on Tractive to help you pinpoint the location, but it's not very loud.

Tractive Dog 6 GPS track during Lost Dog Mode test.

Fi Series 3 Test Results

Fi 3 overall worked well, but was a little more difficult to navigate than Tractive and had some glitches. When in Lost Dog Mode, the Fi app shows your dog's location and your location, but it doesn't show their path of travel. During this test, my location did not update frequently, so it was difficult to tell where I was. However, Fi has the option to get directions in Google Maps. When I did this, my location was updated. This is a good backup option to check where you are, but your dog's location will not update when in Google Maps.

Fi 3 Lost Dog Mode test.

In the Fi app, your dog's path of travel is recorded under the Timeline, but you can't view it until you turn off Lost Dog Mode. The path of travel recorded by Fi during the Lost Dog Mode test was less accurate than Tractive. There were a few glitches where the location jumped around. Overall, I have found that Fi tracks are sometimes very accurate and other times have some inaccurate locations that cause the track to jump around.

Fi uses Bluetooth, but doesn't have a separate Bluetooth tracking feature like Tractive and Whistle. When you get close, your icon will appear attached to your dog's icon in the app. This can make locating them more difficult if they are hiding, but you could try switching to Google Maps for a (hopefully) more accurate location.

Fi 3 GPS track recorded during Lost Dog Mode test.

Whistle Go Explore 2.0 Test Results

Whistle Go Explore worked okay, but had some glitches too. When in Lost Dog Mode (called Find My Pet), the Whistle app shows your location, your dog's location and their path of travel. But Whistle didn't update locations as frequently as Tractive or Fi. As you can see in the following map, the locations are connected by straight lines. According to their support page, Whistle will give you a location update every 15 seconds, but I only received 6 updates in 18 minutes.

My location also updated infrequently, which made tracking difficult. I was able to orient myself by the bends in the road, but if I were searching in the woods this would be impossible.

When close to the tracker, Whistle automatically turns on Bluetooth tracking. But again, you have to be really close for this to work. At one time, I was within a few feet of the tracker and Bluetooth didn't turn on.

Whistle GPS track during Lost Dog Mode test

When I tried testing Lost Dog Mode in another location with good cell reception, my location on the map updated infrequently for all three trackers. It took up to 5 minutes of remaining in one location for the apps to update my location. I don't yet know if this is a common issue with the trackers or perhaps an issue with my phone. More testing is needed.

My Recommendations

If cost is not an issue, I definitely recommend the Fi GPS collar. I tested the Fi Series 3, but the Series 3+ is now available. Fi has by far the best battery life and was generally accurate. It provided location updates 3 to 5 times per minute in Lost Dog Mode and at least every 5 minutes in regular tracking mode. The tracker is integrated with the collar, but other companies sell Fi compatible collars and harnesses if you want more options.

Use this Referral Link to receive $20 off a Fi Series 3+ GPS collar and 1 month of free Fi Membership!

With the exception of battery life, the Tractive Dog 6 was a great tracker. If anything, it was more accurate and updated lost dog locations more frequently than the Fi 3. Tractive also updates locations every 2 to 60 minutes in default tracking mode, so you don't need to waste battery life using Lost Dog Mode unless you really need it. If you have a larger dog, I would probably recommend one of the Tractive Dog XL trackers for improved battery life (though I did not get to test these). The Tractive trackers are more budget friendly, frequently have sales, and have more options for subscription plans. Tractive is also the only tracker that works in countries other than the US.

If you have a skittish dog, I would recommend Fi over Tractive. When a skittish dog goes missing, they often go into "survival mode" and are likely to run from everyone and not even respond to their owner's voice. Many skittish, panicked and/or newly adopted dogs need to be caught using surveillance technology and a humane trap (or large enclosure trap). This can take days or even weeks even when you know the location of your lost dog. Long battery life is essential. That said, the Fi collar itself is not great for skittish dogs because they might pull out of it. I would recommend walking a skittish dog on a separate martingale collar or buy a Fi compatible martingale collar.

At this point, I can't really recommend the Whistle Go Explore 2.0. I used Whistle (and previously Tagg) with my last dog for many years. But while other trackers have significantly improved their performance, Whistle seems to have lagged behind. The quality of their website information and support is also subpar.

Some of the issues that I had included slow connection in Find My Pet mode or not connecting at all. Whistle also sent fewer location updates, so I had no tracking ability if I couldn't connect to Find My Pet mode. It is possible that some of the issues I had were due to using an Android phone. At the time I conducted these tests, the Whistle app had a 2.1 star rating for Android and a 4.6 star rating for iPhones.

Right before I published this article, Tractive announced that it had purchased Whistle and the Whistle platform and devices would stop working on August 31, 2025.

Sources and Notes

Fi product and support pages. Support pages were detailed and updated.

PC Magazine Review of the Fi Smart Dog Collar Series 3.

Tractive product and support pages. Support pages were detailed and updated. Some useful pages include:

Whistle product and support pages. I found it harder to find detailed specifications on the Whistle website. A lot of the support page information seemed outdated.

The post How to Select the Best Dog GPS Tracker appeared first on Lost Pet Research and Recovery.

Seeking Future Lost Pet Search Dog

Danielle Robertson — Wed, 21 Aug 2024 16:26:17 +0000

Update - Meet Luna my lost pet search dog in training. She is an Australian Cattle Dog or ACD. If you are interested in learning more about her or following her training, check out her Facebook page Luna the ACD.

I am finally starting the search for my next lost pet search dog. I'm aiming for a scent-specific trailing dog but I'd also consider a cat detection dog.

I'm hoping to find a dog between now and next summer. If anyone has any leads on dogs or good rescue groups, please let me know. I will want to meet and test them before adoption, so they need to be within the Northeast. I'd prefer to adopt but I would consider purchasing a pure bred puppy if from a working dog line and reputable breeder.

Best ways to get in touch are through my Contact Form or text (413) 461-0911.

My Ideal Search Dog Candidate

Puppy or Young Dog - up to 2 years. I'd prefer to adopt but I would consider purchasing a pure bred puppy if from a working dog line and reputable breeder.
Small to Medium Size - ideally between 10 to 40 lbs. I want to be able to carry them in an emergency.
Must LOVE cats! They will primarily be searching for lost cats and I live with two senior kitties.
Must like other dogs and be okay around children. I don't have either but we often encounter them on searches.
No significant fear or aggression issues. No sound phobias is a major plus.
High search and play drives. High food drive is a plus.

Additional Preferences

In addition to a search partner, I'm also looking for an exercise buddy. The ideal dog would also enjoy hiking and camping, and hopefully also mountain biking, cross-country skiing, or even kayaking. Ability to be off leash is a plus.

Prefer female and short hair, but these are less important.

I'm aware that I'm asking for a lot, but I've already had two really great dogs in my life, so I know that they are out there.

Possible Breeds

Breed is not super important but so far all my dogs have been herding dogs, labs, and/or hound mixes. Possible breed mixes include:

Herding dogs: Australian Cattle Dog (blue heeler), Border Collie, Australian Shepherd, Miniature American Shepherd, Kelpie, or Sheltie
Hounds: Beagle or Dachshund
Gun dogs: Retrievers, Spaniels or Pointers
Terriers: Jack Russell Terrier or Rat Terrier

The post Seeking Future Lost Pet Search Dog appeared first on Lost Pet Research and Recovery.

Effective Long-term Lost Pet Search Methods

Danielle Robertson — Tue, 02 Apr 2024 16:09:32 +0000

When a dog or cat is missing for months or even years, the most effective search methods are not necessarily the same as those used in the first few days or weeks. This is especially true when there are few to no confirmed sightings of the missing pet.

This article is meant to help provide guidance on the most effective search methods for conducting a long-term search. Some of these methods work best if maintained over time such as online posting and posters. Others are perhaps new ideas to try when nothing else has worked so far.

I will be writing an accompanying article on how long to search and advice on keeping motivated.

Table of Contents

How Long is a Long-term Search?

Most Effective Advertising Methods

Online Posting and Social Media

Posters

Flyers

Postcards

Creative Advertising Methods

Other Effective Search Methods

Microchips

Keep in Touch with Animal Control, Shelters, Rescues, Feral Cat Feeders, Veterinarians, etc.

Surveillance or Wildlife Cameras

Work with a Lost Pet Recovery Team

Physical Searches

Search Dogs

How Record Keeping Aids in a Long-term Search

About This Research

How to Learn More or Contribute to this Research

How Long is a Long-term Search?

Most pet detectives considered a search long-term when the pet was missing for 2-4 months or more. However, I wouldn’t be surprised if most lost pet owners consider a search long-term when their pet has been missing for even a few weeks. Unfortunately, many pet owners are likely to give up their search before it becomes long-term. But there are that special minority that will persist in searching for months or even years.

Most Effective Advertising Methods

Advertising is probably the single most effective long-term search method. This can include online posting, posters, flyers, banners or media coverage.

Online Posting and Social Media

Posting and searching online or on social media are among the easier search activities to maintain long-term and can be effective.

Post on Local Community Sites

Make sure that you are posting and regularly checking any local community sites and not just lost pet sites. People often post sightings of found or loose dogs or cats on community sites before posting them on lost pet sites.

Examples of Local Community Sites

Community Facebook groups or pages in your town and surrounding towns
Nextdoor.com
Neighbors App by Ring (does not require a Ring camera)
Reddit communities
Some communities (most often apartment complexes or HOAs) may have an email list

Example search of Facebook Community Groups for Granby, MA

Post on Local and Regional Lost Pet Groups or Pages

Posting to local and regional lost pet groups and pages is also important. Find these by searching Facebook (e.g. "lost pet" plus your state or region). The people that admin or visit these sites are also more likely to keep an eye out for found pets on community sites. One of my longest lost cat searches was found after almost two years when someone who was feeding the cat posted to a local Facebook group. The owner did not see the post, but a local admin for a lost pet group saw the post and contacted the owner.

Facebook is probably most effective, but don't forget to check for other local and regional posting sites. Craigslist (both the "lost + found" and "pets" sections) and Kijiji in Canada are ones to try.

Post on National Lost Pet Sites

Don't forget to also post on national lost pet sites. There were fewer reports of these sites leading to recoveries, but they do occasionally work. Some sites will also share their posts to their own local and regional Facebook pages.

Create a Lost Pet Facebook Page

Some people even create a Facebook page or group specifically for their lost pet. This can make it easier to provide updates and engage followers to continue keeping an eye out. You can also pay to advertise from your page by boosting posts to people that live in the area the pet is missing. Learn more here. If you create a Facebook page, don’t forget to include a link on your posters and flyers.

Posters

In general, well-designed posters are one of the more effective methods for finding a lost pet. However, it can sometimes take a long time for the right person to see your poster AND your lost pet. Just because you aren’t getting a lot of calls from your posters, doesn’t necessarily mean that they aren’t working. That said, the first most important step is to make sure that your posters are designed correctly so that people are noticing them. Learn more here.

I’ve had several lost cat cases where it took 5-6 weeks to get the first sighting, so I always recommend keeping posters up for a minimum of 6 weeks. Several other cases took as long as six months for the posters to work.

One such case was Jerry, an outdoor-access cat that went missing when a neighbor trapped him and then released him at a park 1.6 miles away. In January/February they put up 40 large posters and 64 small posters over a 1 mile radius around where Jerry was released. In June, they finally got the call they were waiting for. A woman visiting her mother saw one of the posters and called to report that her mother had been feeding a similar looking cat for several months.

If possible, keep posters up for many months or even years. If you can’t keep lots of posters up, then repost periodically and/or at least keep a few up near the point last seen and at some nearby locations with lots of traffic. If posters on public property are not allowed or are removed, then get permission to put a few larger signs on private property.

Some other suggestions for keeping posters noticeable:

Replace old looking posters with nice new ones.
Change the wording to “Still Missing” so people know that you are still looking, and these aren’t just old forgotten signs.
Change the colors or style of the posters.
Change the size of the posters. Larger is usually better, but switching to smaller posters may be an option if larger ones are being removed.
Add a large, specific reward. Note that this is only recommended in cases without sightings. You never want to do anything to encourage people to chase a lost dog.

Sometimes a lack of sightings may indicate that the lost pet has left the search area. Consider expanding the poster area as well.

Flyers

Some people use the terms posters and flyers interchangeably. The main difference here is that flyers are meant to be read at close range. They are most often distributed door-to-door or posted where people walk.

Flyers were less often mentioned as an effective long-term search method. Although flyers are one of the more effective initial search methods, it may be that fewer people try these methods long-term because they require more time and energy. They also must be repeated periodically because people don't necessarily save the flyers.

Example lost cat flyer

While the most labor-intensive, actually going door-to-door and talking to people can often achieve the best results. People will often tell you things when they wouldn’t make the effort to call or text. I’ve had more than a few cases where people had seen the lost cat but hadn’t bothered calling in a sighting. In a few of these cases, we even found the cat still on that person’s property.

If you haven’t distributed flyers door-to-door, this may be a useful step even if your pet has been missing for weeks or months. This is especially true of lost indoor-only cats because they are frequently still close to home.

If you have already distributed flyers, consider a second distribution of flyers and/or expanding your flyer area.

Other creative ways to distribute flyers:

Distribute flyers at events such as garage sales or fairs. This can be done with just the flyer or attach the flyer to water bottles or snacks.
Ask a food delivery business to include flyers with their deliveries.

The biggest drawback with flyers is that most people probably don't save them. So if they see your pet weeks or months later, they often have no way to contact you. Consider adding a note to flyers or posters asking people to take a photo with their phone so they have it on hand if they see your missing pet.

Postcards

If distributing flyers is too time consuming, you might consider mailing postcards instead. These can get expensive, often starting around $500 – 1,000 in my experience. If you can’t afford postcards, perhaps try to find a business that will sponsor your mailings by including your lost pet posting on their own advertising mailer.

Creative Advertising Methods

In some cases, finding a lost pet is not about maintaining search methods, but about trying something new. These advertising methods aren’t for everyone, but they can generate a lot of attention.

Car tagging or a car wrap.
Intersection alerts.
Banners or billboards. Banners can be as simple as duct tape on a tarp or they can be professionally designed.

Media Coverage

This method can be very effective if you can create a compelling story such as something interesting or emotional about the missing pet, the situation under which they went missing or the recovery methods being used. One woman in New Zealand found her cat by dressing up in a cat costume and standing at an intersection with a large lost cat sign. A newspaper story covered the event leading to a sighting of her cat after six months.

Other Effective Search Methods

Microchips

When all other search methods fail, a lost pet may eventually find their way home due to a microchip. There are many stories in the news of lost pets found months or even many years after they went missing. Make sure that your pet’s microchip is properly registered and that your contact information is kept current. If possible, give permission for the microchip company to give out your contact information so that you are easier to contact.

Keep in Touch with Animal Control, Shelters, Rescues, Feral Cat Feeders, Veterinarians, etc.

At the very least, keep checking found pets at shelters and rescues even if just online. Check Petfinder.com and other adoption pages as well as Facebook pages for local shelters and rescues. My longest lost cat case was recovered after three years due to a found cat posting on a shelter page. Read Cosmo's story here.

Animal Control Officers, shelter staff and volunteers, feral cat feeders, veterinarians and admins for lost pet pages are all people that see a lot of lost, found, stray and adoptable pets. If you can get them to help you look, this is much more effective then just you looking, especially since not all found pets are posted online.

Try to create a relationship with shelters, rescues or feral cat feeders. Call or visit regularly so that they know you are still searching. Encourage staff or volunteers to join your lost pet's Facebook group if you have one. Perhaps go as far as to become a volunteer. If that’s not possible, consider helping at events or donating gifts periodically.

Surveillance or Wildlife Cameras

This is more often a long-term search method for lost cats since they are usually in a smaller area than lost dogs. Not having sightings with lost cats is much more common. Surveillance or Wi-Fi cameras are recommended around the home for a minimum of several months. Lost indoor-only cats often return home at some point, usually in the middle of the night when no one is around. Outdoor-access cats have also been reported coming home after months missing. Surprisingly, some of these outdoor-access cats even visited their yard, but did not alert their owners that they were back.

Cameras can also be used to verify potential sightings or be placed in locations where a lost pet is more likely to show up. This could be near a potential shelter or food source such as an abandoned building or a feral cat feeding station. I once found a missing indoor cat after six weeks with a camera placed at a local feral cat feeding location. Prior to this, there were no verified sightings.

Surveillance camera photo of Leo at feral cat feeding station after six weeks missing.

There is some disagreement among pet detectives on the most effective methods of using wildlife cameras. Some will keep them in a single location for longer periods of time while others will move them around every few days to try lots of different potential locations.

Work with a Lost Pet Recovery Team

This may not be an option for everyone, but it is much easier to maintain a long-term search with the support of a team. This tactic is more commonly seen with lost dog searches. If possible, work with an experienced Lost Pet Recovery Team. When a team is not organized or uses questionable search methods, this can actually decrease the chances of finding your lost pet.

Physical Searches

In general, physical searches are not very effective after a lost pet has been missing for several months with no sightings. Escaped indoor-only cats or displaced outdoor-access cats are a possible exception. These cats may still be relatively close to home months after they escape. The longest time that I had a successful physical search was for an indoor-only cat nearly two months after he escaped. I saw him during the search and he was caught 10 days later.

Search Dogs

A scent-specific tracking dog could be used in certain situations in a long-term lost pet search. A search dog might be used to determine whether a lost pet is still in the original search area or near a previous sighting. This is more likely to work with lost indoor or displaced outdoor-access cats since they don’t usually travel as far. If you are getting sightings but have been unable to verify them with surveillance cameras, a search dog may be able to help verify if they are your lost pet.

Be aware that there is a lot of debate and little research on how long a scent trail lasts. The goal here is to verify whether the lost pet was recently in the search area or near a sighting and not to follow a months old track. In these cases, you definitely want an experienced search dog with a good negative trail indication. This means that if the dog can’t find a scent trail, they won’t go for a walk. The longer a pet has been missing, the more likely you are to get false tracks by poorly trained search dogs.

How Record Keeping Aids in a Long-term Search

Keep detailed records of search activities and potential sightings. Even if you don’t do so in the initial (often more frantic) part of your search, it’s never too late to start keeping records. These records can help you keep track of what search activities you have already done, determine what activities have been most effective, and figure out what else could be done.

Some items to keep in your records:

A search map showing locations and dates of potential sightings, feeding stations, security cameras, and traps.
Locations and dates of posters and flyers.
A list of sites and dates where you posted online.
Names, phone numbers, and sources of possible sightings (e.g. from a Facebook post or a call from a poster).

About This Research

This article is based on my 15 years experience in lost pet recovery along with surveys and discussions with pet detectives, pet trackers, lost pet specialists, etc. Data was collected via surveys, Facebook posts, and a Missing Animal Response Network members meeting. This article is based on preliminary research and data collection is ongoing.

Learn more at LostPetResearch.org.

How to Learn More or Contribute to this Research

If you have found a missing pet after a long-term search, please consider sharing your story in the comments and/or completing this short survey about your experience.

If you want to be sure that you receive updates on lost pet research projects like this one, join the Lost Pet Research Group or follow Lost Pet Research and Recovery on Facebook.

The post Effective Long-term Lost Pet Search Methods appeared first on Lost Pet Research and Recovery.

Cat Feeding Station Best Practices to Avoid Coyotes

Danielle Robertson — Tue, 18 Apr 2023 18:46:31 +0000

Cat feeding stations are commonly used to feed feral cat colonies and outdoor/barn cats. They are also frequently used to help locate a missing cat. When searching for a lost cat, the feeding station is often set up with a surveillance camera to verify that the cat is present before setting a humane trap.

There is a lot of disagreement around the use of cat feeding stations since they can attract other wildlife including predators that may harm cats. In particular, coyotes are a potential threat to cats in most areas of the US. Some pet detectives will never or rarely use a feeding station due to the potential risks involved. However, there are also potential risks to not providing food if the cat cannot be found and caught quickly.

Coyote visits cat feeding station

When used for feral cats, most Trap-Neuter-Return (TNR) sites recommend feeding the cats once a day at a set time, and only leaving the food out for 30 minutes. Any remaining food and bowls should be picked up to avoid attracting any wildlife. Unfortunately, this is not practical when using a feeding station for a lost cat. Many lost cats only come out at night and generally avoid human activity. It often takes several days and sometimes a week or longer of setting a feeding station before the lost cat appears on camera.

What can be done to reduce coyote activity around a cat feeding station? If you are in a hurry for the answer, skip to "what we can learn from this study."

Table of Contents

What We Can Learn from Published Research Studies on Feral Cat Feeding Stations

Study Methods

Study Results

What we can learn from this study

Study Limitations

Using Elevated Platforms for Cat Feeding Stations

Other Potential Methods to Protect Cats from Coyotes at a Feeding Station

Use of Coyote Deterrents

Reduce Coyote Access to the Food

Provide Escape Routes or Secure Shelter for the Cat

Future Research

Literature Researched

What We Can Learn from Published Research Studies on Feral Cat Feeding Stations

I was only able to locate a single study on coyotes and cat feeding stations: Confluence and Implications of Cats, Coyotes, and Other Mesopredators at a Feral Cat Feeding Station (Mitchell et al. 2022).

Study Methods

This study focused on a single TNR cat colony in Rhode Island, US. Over the course of two years, three different feeding methods were employed. Visits of cats, coyotes, raccoons, and skunks were measured at the feeding station using a wildlife camera.

Method A: Large quantities of food at ground level. Between 3-5 lbs of dry food was heaped in a large salad bowl or two "deli" trays. This method was also what was used prior to the start of the study.

Method B: Large quantities of food elevated. An on-demand gravity feeder was secured on top of a one-meter-high table. Animals had to climb or jump onto the table and then push open a flap at the bottom of the feeder storage bin to access the food. The feeder was never left empty.

Method C: Small quantities of food at ground level. Between 1.25-1.5 lbs of dry food was placed in a bowl on the ground.

In all cases, food was placed out on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays between 8:00 and 8:30am.

Study Results

The following animals visited the cat feeding station: cats (64% of visits), raccoons (22%), coyotes (9%), and skunks (5%). Blue jays, turkeys, mice, squirrels, grey fox, red fox, and opossums were also present but were not measured.

Boxplot from "Confluence and Implications of Cats, Coyotes and Other Mesopredators at a Feral Cat Feeding Station" (Mitchell et al. 2022)

Overall, cats visited the feeding stations less when coyotes, raccoons and skunks were present. The most cats and fewest coyotes visited when large amounts of food were placed on an elevated platform.

Method A: When large amounts of food were placed on the ground, cats visited mostly during the day. Coyotes, raccoons and skunks primarily visited at night. During this time, 30% of the feral cats disappeared from the feeding station.

Method B: When large amounts of food were placed on an elevated feeding station, more cats visited at night. Raccoons also ate from the feeding station. Coyotes and skunks were not recorded.

Method C: When small amounts of food were placed on the ground, cats visited throughout the day and night. Cat activity was highest when the food was put out in the morning. Coyote and raccoon visits were minimal at night, and no skunks appeared. The food was generally gone before night.

What we can learn from this study

Based on this study, an elevated feeding platform works best if you want to maximize cat activity at the feeding station while minimizing coyote activity. This also allows you to more safely provide a large quantity of food. With more food present, some food will be available at all hours. This increases the chances of getting all cats in the area (and hopefully the lost cat) to make an appearance at the feeding station.

The second best option was only providing small amounts of food on the ground during the day. This may also reduce coyote activity at the feeding station unless you live in an area where coyotes are frequently active during the day. However, if this method were used for a lost cat, the food could easily be gone well before the cat shows up (usually in the middle of the night).

Another interesting finding of this study was how long it took before all cats in the area showed up on camera. With large quantities of food, it took 3-5 days to get an accurate estimate of the number of cats in the area. In contrast, with small amounts of food, it took 8-11 days. This is something to take into consideration when you determine how long to leave up a feeding station before concluding that the lost cat is not present.

Study Limitations

Unfortunately, this seems to be the only study on cat feeding stations and interactions with wildlife (at this time). The study was conducted on a single feeding station in Rhode Island in a suburban area. Since coyote activity is highly variable throughout the country, this study really needs to be replicated in other areas. In areas with significant daytime coyote activity, the results might differ.

During the study 40% (8/20) of cats disappeared and most occurred during Method A when large amounts of food were on the ground. During this time coyote visits were highest (14% of visits). The researchers conclude that the missing cats were killed by coyotes, but they never found any cat remains. It certainly is possible that the cats were killed by coyotes, but it is also quite possible that they left for other reasons.

Using Elevated Platforms for Cat Feeding Stations

The elevated cat feeding station used in the this study was described as "an
“on-demand” gravity feeder secured on top of a one-meter-high table... Animals had to climb or jump on the table and push open a flap at the bottom of the feeder’s storage bin to access dry food. Feeders could hold up to 3.2 kg (7 lb) of food; the feeder was never left empty" (Mitchell et al. 2022). I reached out to the authors to try and get a photo or illustration of the elevated feeding station, but I never heard back.

For those interested in using an elevated platform, I found the following resources. These include designs that will limit raccoons, opossums, skunks, and coyotes. In general, minimal elevation (even 1-2 feet) will usually exclude skunks. On the other hand, raccoons can climb just about anything, but they aren't great jumpers.

A minimally elevated cat feeding station may exclude skunks but not other wildlife.

The Ark Workshop offers a variety of cat feeding stations for sale.
For a more permanent structure, here are the building instructions for a raccoon proof feeder courtesy of Shawdowcats.net.

When setting up a feeding station for a lost cat, you probably want something more portable. I sometimes just use a folding table with a box on top to protect the food from the weather. With a large enough table, a trap can also be set up if needed. This set-up works to keep skunks out, but usually not raccoons or opossums. I haven't yet had a coyote show up at an elevated feeding station, so I can't say from personal experience how well this works to exclude coyotes. If anyone else would like to share their elevated feeding station designs, please email photos to info@lostpetresearch.com.

Cat feeding station on a folding table. This will avoid skunks but likely not raccoons or opossums.

One concern that I sometimes have with elevated cat feeding stations is whether it might also exclude some cats. In my experience, not all cats are great jumpers and some cats, in particular old or overweight cats, might have difficulty reaching the platform.

Other Potential Methods to Protect Cats from Coyotes at a Feeding Station

Below are some additional suggestions, but most have minimal to no research that I am aware of. However, I am planning to do additional journal research on these topics.

Use of Coyote Deterrents

There are a lot of coyote deterrents on the market. Unfortunately, many things that will scare a coyote, like loud noises, flashing lights or spraying water, are also likely to scare off a lost cat. The methods listed below are some of the less intrusive coyote deterrents, but it is still possible that they would scare away a cat.

Wolf Urine

Some researchers have found that wolf urine works to discourage coyote activity even in areas where wolves are not present (Wauson and Rogers 2021). In order to be effective, the urine must be applied in a perimeter and reapplied frequently. This study used dispensers that needed to be re-filled every nine days (despite the online instructions stating every 33 days). They also recommend applying the urine high enough to simulate a large wolf. The Predator Pee Store also promotes wolf urine as a feral cat repellent, but I haven't found any research to support its effectiveness.

Predator Deterrent Lights

Nite Guard and Predator Guard are among companies selling predator deterrent lights. These products have one or two small red lights that flash and supposedly simulate the eyes of a larger predator. I haven't yet found any studies to support whether they work or not. There is also the question of whether these would scare a cat if they actually work.

No products found.

Fladry

Fladry consists of a line of brightly colored flags hung along a fence or perimeter. The flags moving in the wind are supposed to scare wolves and other predators from entering livestock pastures. There is some evidence that this works for wolves (at least for a month or two), but at least one study found that it did not work for coyotes (Davidson-Nelson and Gehring 2010). As with other tools, there is some concern that fladry might scare a lost cat as well.

Reduce Coyote Access to the Food

If the coyotes cannot access the cat food, they are less likely to continue visiting the feeding station. This is what this research study found when they put the cat food on an elevated platform. Theoretically, this would also work if the food was made inaccessible in other ways such as placed inside or under something where coyotes could not fit.

Provide Escape Routes or Secure Shelter for the Cat

Alternatively, the food could be placed on the ground, but near suitable escape routes or secure shelter for the cat. This could be near a shed or deck that a cat could hide underneath, but a coyote would not fit. If no natural escape routes are present, one site recommends using 12 inch x 6 foot PVC pipes. These need to be secured in place so they won't roll. The cat may need to be encouraged to investigate the pipe with treats or they might not use it in an emergency.

If you are making more of a long-term feeding station, you might consider building a cat house as an escape shelter and/or for secure sleeping. This should have a door that is just big enough for the cat and a coyote can't enter or get their head inside. For my feral cat shelter I placed a large cinderblock at the entrance to create a secure hallway. (There are no coyotes in my yard, but my feral cat frequently uses the shelter to escape my puppy.) The Feralvilla provides a safe design that has a ground floor entrance and then a second floor sleeping area.

Feral cat house with cinderblock door for protection from dogs and coyotes.

Providing the cat with something to climb is another option. However, I've seen a number of Youtube videos where cats attempting to climb were pulled down by coyotes. In general it seems like cats are not able to climb quickly enough.

These methods seem less than ideal, since the coyotes are likely to continue to visit the feeding station if food is readily available.

Future Research

Clearly more research is needed on this topic. If you use one of these methods or an alternative method to reduce coyote activity around cat feeding stations, please describe it in the comments or email photos to info@lostpetresearch.com. Future research projects will be posted at LostPetResearch.org.

Literature Researched

Davidson-Nelson, S.J. and T.M. Gehring. 2010. Testing Fladry as a Nonlethal Management Tool for Wolves and Coyotes in Michigan. Human-Wildlife Interactions: 4(1): Article 11.

Mitchell, N.C., M.W. Strohbach, M.N. Sorlien, and S.N. Marshall. 2022. Confluence and Implications of Cats, Coyotes, and Other Mesopredators at a Feral Cat Feeding Station. Society & Animals 30: 721-741.

Wauson, M, and W. Rogers. 2021. A test of gray wolf urine to reduce coyote depredation rates on loggerhead sea turtle nests. Journal for Nature Conservation 63: article 126050. Read a full copy of the thesis here.

The post Cat Feeding Station Best Practices to Avoid Coyotes appeared first on Lost Pet Research and Recovery.

Lost Pet Research Projects

Danielle Robertson — Mon, 03 Apr 2023 23:08:33 +0000

This year I'm planning to focus on lost pet research projects and blog articles. At this point I have way too many ideas and I want to see what YOU are most interested in learning about. I'm also hoping to gauge interest in research participation, which would be necessary for some projects. If you have any suggestions, feel free to leave a Comment at the end of this article or Contact me here.

This article has now been updated on the new LostPetResearch.org website.

Visit LostPetResearch.org

Lost Pet Research Blog Articles

The Lost Pet Research Blog is home to my current research articles. Most of these articles are based on research studies published in the scientific literature. There are a range of topics, but so far most relate to lost cat behavior and coyotes. These articles go back as early as 2011 and some could probably be updated with new research.

Possible future topics that I am considering:

Characteristics of cat remains from coyote attacks.
How much can raptors (eagles, hawks, and owls) lift?
Updated research on cat home ranges and movements.
Updated research on effective tracking devices.

Current Published Lost Pet Research Studies

At this time there are very few published studies related directly to lost pet recovery. The existing studies also have a number of shortcomings.

Biased samples in Lord studies (in Lost Pet Statistics article see notes under Literature Cited for examples).
Most lost cats were found by returning home on their own. This may indicate that most people are not using effective search techniques.
Most studies didn’t separate data between indoor and outdoor access cats.

Search Methods Used to Locate Missing Cats and Locations Where Missing Cats are Found

See notes under Limitations and Errors in the Study.
This study used complicated statistics.
This study used a long and complicated survey, which appears to have resulted in errors in completion.
Only 24% of people received assistance from a pet detective or volunteer lost pet recovery group. Is there a difference between found stats from people that received professional help and those that did not?

Lost and Found Pet Statistics Research

These type of research projects would require participation from pet detectives, lost pet consultants, lost pet trappers, etc.

Case Logs

Does anyone currently collect case data in a systematic method?
Does anyone conduct statistics on their data?

Found Pet Survey

This survey would only include data from pets that were lost and then found.

Option 1: Full length survey

Issues with this method. As a survey becomes longer and more complex, fewer people will complete the survey and they are more likely to make errors.
Could be completed by pet owner or by pet detective.

Option 2: Short surveys on different topics

This is the option that I lean towards. Shorter surveys are more likely to be completed and with fewer errors. In order to do these surveys we could need to determine what are the most important lost pet demographics?

Some possible research topics:

Dogs and cats in car accidents. How far from the accident are they found?
How often do escaped indoor cats return home or to the point of escape?
Distance from location lost to location found alive.
Where are remains found? Distance from home? What is found?
What advertising methods work best?

Connect with other businesses for research on lost and found pet data

These options would require me to contact various pet-related businesses and see if any of them are interested in participating.

Pet tracking device companies. Look at GPS data on where lost cats/dogs travel and are found.
Amber alert services. How often do these services directly lead to recoveries? I suspect this info may be difficult to get since these companies want people to think that their services are very effective even if they are not.
Microchip companies. What percentage of microchipped dogs/cats are reported lost? Do they collect any information on found statistics?
Shelters. Some shelter data is publicly available.

Collaborating with other researchers:

I would try to connect with Universities or other research groups for collaboration on projects. This is something that MARN has done in the past.

Previous collaboration on Missing Cat Project.
Guelph research study on cat personalities and their territories
Could also try and connect with predator study groups

Citizen Science Research Experiments

These types of research projects would be much more complex to set up and carry out.

Cat litter experiment - Does dirty cat litter attract predators or other animals?
Scent lure experiment - Do certain scent lures really work for attracting lost dogs or cats?
Movement patterns of displaced cats - Perhaps collect GPS data on newly moved outdoor-access cats

How to learn more and/or participate

If you are really interested and don't want to miss out on anything, I would suggest signing up for the Lost Pet Research Newsletter and/or the Lost Pet Research Facebook group. However, I will also post updates to MARN Facebook groups and my Lost Pet Research Facebook page.

Watch for updates:

On MARN Facebook groups.
On my Lost Pet Research Facebook page.
On my new Lost Pet Research Facebook Group. This is primarily aimed at people interested in participating in the research. But feel free to sign up if you just want to make sure that you don't miss out on anything.
Lost Pet Research Email list: Sign Up HERE
I am planning to put most surveys and research information on my other website LostPetResearch.org so it doesn’t get lost in all the information on my business website.

Additional ideas for short surveys and discussions on tools, techniques, and results

Favorite search/capture equipment

Cameras
Cat traps
Dog traps
Nets
Snappy Snare
Other must have tools

Search and Recovery Techniques

Poster design and placement
Flyer design and placement
Trap placement and set-up

Specialized search/capture equipment: use, efficacy and design

Drones
Net guns
Enclosure traps
XL box traps
Drop nets
Drop traps
Collarum
Infrared or thermal imaging

Loss Prevention and Recovery Tools and their effectiveness

Bluetooth (e.g. Airtag)
GPS
Radio-tags
ID Tags
Microchips

Business/volunteer tools and systems for client and case management

Client management
Case management and record keeping
Volunteer management
Setting rates

The post Lost Pet Research Projects appeared first on Lost Pet Research and Recovery.

Recommended Lost Pet Search Equipment

Danielle Robertson — Sun, 27 Nov 2022 19:27:51 +0000

The following lost pet search equipment is recommended by Lost Pet Research and Recovery based on over 10 years of lost pet recovery experience. Also included are some tools recommended by other pet detectives. If you have suggestions, please add them in the comments.

Search Equipment

I carry the following equipment on almost all my searches. Items used less frequently are noted in the description.

Flashlight

This is my number one search tool that I always carry on a lost cat search and most lost dog searches. My favorite flashlight so far is by Feit Electric. I have an older model of the one shown here. In general I recommend any flashlight with at least 500 lumens, a sliding zoom lens, good battery life, and easy to replace batteries (not specialty batteries).

No products found.

Knee Pads

I wish that I bought these years ago. When looking for a lost cat, you need to get down on the ground a lot to conduct an effective search. Most often, I only wear one pad on my dominant knee since I find them a little uncomfortable for walking. I think the ones that I own are from Home Depot or Lowes and look similar to these, but only have one strap.

No products found.

Digital Camera and/or Cell Phone

I always carry a small digital camera. I use this to search in tight places for hiding cats or dogs. This usually involves sticking my hand in small dark holes and snapping a few pictures. Some people use their cell phone instead to take photos or video, but I find my old camera easier to use. I also use my digital camera to take photos of any animal sightings (with the 10x optical zoom) and to check photos on my SD card wildlife cameras.

No products found.

Borescope or Inspection Camera

I almost always carry my borescope, but I only use it after first trying to search with my flashlight and digital camera. The small screen makes it difficult to see hiding animals clearly unless you can catch their eye shine. It is most useful for checking in holes, in walls, and under sheds (close to the ground).

The borescope that I purchased in 2018 is no longer available, but for my next model, I plan to buy one with a shorter (perhaps 3-6 foot) rigid cable like this one. The 10-foot cable that I have is too long and not rigid enough after extended more than 3-4 feet. Most of the ones that attach to cell cameras have flimsy cables that aren't much use.

No products found.

Capture Net

I rarely carry a net with me, but always keep one or more in my car. These are most often used for lost cats that are found hiding in an enclosed space. Usually I prefer to have the owner lure the cat out or set a humane cat trap and camera. However, if the cat is in a space where they are unlikely to escape or run away, I will use a net.

My primary net is a folding net like the one pictured here. But my net is from ACES with a 17" depth and (presumably) higher quality netting. I also recently purchased a Humaniac Cage Net, but haven't used it yet.

I usually have the owner bring a towel or small blanket on the search. In most cases, I have used this for carrying a found cat and not a net or carrier.

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Animal Handling Gloves

When handling an animal in a net, I always wear animal handling gloves. I bought my gloves from ACES and they look similar to these. This design provides protection but also still allows dexterity.

Snappy Snare

I own a Snappy Snare, but have never used it. Whenever I've been close enough to a loose dog to use one, I've never had it on me. However, I'm including it on this list because many dog trappers swear by them.

Surveillance Equipment

These are my most frequently used search equipment for surveillance and capture of lost dogs and cats. Items used less frequently are noted in the description.

Security Cameras

This is my number one tool for finding escaped indoor cats. Learn more here. My favorite are the Blink Outdoor cameras (pictured). I also like the Wyze v3 camera if you are on a budget. Other pet detectives prefer Ring, Reolink or Arlo.

Most of these cameras can be purchased as wifi or cellular versions. The cellular security cameras are usually best for use in lost dog trapping (where wifi is not available).

No products found.

Cellular Wildlife Cameras

I use cellular wildlife cameras for monitoring humane traps for cats and dogs. Trapping is much safer and more successful with live monitoring of the trap. They are also useful for checking potential sightings.

I use the Ridgetec Lookout and Browning Wireless Defender Pro Scout. I also like the SpyPoint Link Micro if you are on a budget.

Since wildlife cameras are always changing, I suggest checking TrailCamPro.com for the newest reviews and recommendations. Cameras purchased from TrailCamPro include a 2-year warranty and 90-day returns.

No products found.

SD Card Wildlife Cameras

Some people might argue that SD card cameras are no longer useful. However, I find that good quality SD card cameras are less likely to miss taking photos/video of a lost cat or small dog than similar priced wifi or cellular security cameras. So I often like to use an SD card camera in addition to make sure that I'm not missing anything important. They are also still useful in areas without cellular service.

My favorite SD card cameras are Browning cameras. I recommend selecting a camera with a blackout or black flash. A built in cable lock attachment is also a good choice.

No products found.

Wildlife Camera Accessories

Most cameras require an SD card or microSD card, which is sometimes included. If you have old SD cards lying around, these may not work with cellular cameras. You may also need a card reader for your phone or computer.

For security purposes, I recommend getting a good python cable lock. I usually buy them in a pack so they all have the same key. Some of the cheaper cameras are not compatible with a cable lock.

Good quality batteries like Energizer Ultimate Lithium will make your camera last longer. With lower quality batteries, some cameras may stop taking and/or transmitting photos when the batteries fall below 50% power.

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Humane Trapping Equipment

I primarily work escaped indoor cat and skittish lost dog cases, so trapping is a large part of my business. Good quality trap brands include TruCatch, Tomahawk and Safeguard. Havahart is okay if you need to find a trap quickly. I recommend avoiding the cheaper traps such as those at Tractor Supply or Harbor Freight.

Humane Cat Traps

For cats, I prefer larger cage traps with sliding rear doors. I have a slight preference for gravity drop doors over spring-loaded. When trapping cats, it's also best to go with a trap that is designed specifically for cats. TruCatch and some Tomahawk traps (Neighborhood Cats and FixNation) are designed with a larger trip plate which is harder for cats to step over.

My favorites cat traps are TruCatch 36D and Fat Cat. However, Tomahawk has a new design gravity door trap that might be even better: GT606 Neighborhood Cats Gravity Trap. I own several of the Humane Way Cat Traps. They are good for smaller cats (less than 12 lbs), but are lower quality traps.

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For more information on finding and selecting a trap, check out my articles on Best Humane Cat Traps.

Humane Dog Traps

For dog traps, I prefer Tomahawk and Safeguard traps. The larger TruCatch traps have a known "door bounce" issue that sometimes allows dogs to escape.

One trap that I really like is the Safeguard Large Dog Trap or Tomahawk 610C. These traps are 72" long and will catch most dogs. Tomahawk also offers a folding version if you can't fit the rigid model in your car.

If you are on a budget or need to get a dog trap, the Humane Way dog trap is okay. I've used several and they have worked fine. The trap quality is inferior to others and is susceptible to damage over time. I definitely do NOT recommend the CountyLine large trap available at Tractor Supply.

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For more information on finding and selecting dog traps, check out my article on Best Humane Dog Traps.

Specialty Traps

For hard-to-trap cats, I find a drop trap is invaluable. I have a nice wooden one from Alley Cat Allies, and you can find similar designs on the Drop Trap Design Bank. I also own a metal drop trap from Tomahawk that I like. That one comes with the option of a remote trigger.

Tomahawk Live Trap - Model DT1 - Tomahawk TNR Series Neighborhood Cats Drop Trap...

36"L x 36"W x 14"H

Price not available

Buy on Amazon

Tomahawk Live Trap - Model DT1 - Tomahawk TNR Series Neighborhood Cats Drop Trap...

36"L x 36"W x 14"H

Price not available

Buy on Amazon

Last update on 2026-04-04 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

For hard-to-trap dogs I usually use a custom made enclosure trap. As a last resort I have a Collarum.

Motion Alarms for Trapping

Monitoring the trap with a cellular or wifi camera is the best option if you can't do so in person. The second best option is to alarm the trap using a motion alarm or driveway alarm.

The actual range of the driveway alarm is often far less than the advertised range. Unless you are trapping right outside your house, I recommend getting one with at least a 1/2 mile signal range. I still use the Chamberlain Motion Alarm, but these have been discontinued.

Driveway Alarm Wireless Outside, 1 BY ONE Motion Sensor Alarm 1000ft/300m Range...

eMACROS Non-APP Wireless Driveway Alarm — 1/2 Mile Solar Motion Sensor with...

Max 1,000 foot range

Max 1/2 mile range

Price not available

Buy on Amazon

Driveway Alarm Wireless Outside, 1 BY ONE Motion Sensor Alarm 1000ft/300m Range...

Max 1,000 foot range

Price not available

Buy on Amazon

eMACROS Non-APP Wireless Driveway Alarm — 1/2 Mile Solar Motion Sensor with...

Max 1/2 mile range

Price not available

Buy on Amazon

Last update on 2026-04-04 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Pet Trackers

Not exactly search tools, but when you work in lost pet recovery, you do everything you can to never lose your own pets. So I have tested out several different pet trackers.

GPS Trackers for Dogs

Search dog Dante wore a Whistle GPS for most of his life. Whistle has a better battery life than most trackers available. Fi looks like another good one, but I haven't tried it yet. I have also used Tractive, but found the battery life too short. When researching a GPS tracker, battery life is one of the most important features.

No products found.

Trackers for Cats

My own cats have been wearing TabCat radio trackers (formerly called Loc8tor Pet) since 2015. For more recommendations on trackers for cats, see my article.

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Sources for Lost Pet Search Equipment

Amazon is a good source for security cameras and some wildlife cameras. They sometimes sell Tomahawk traps but shipping can be slow. Security cameras can also be found at Best Buy.

Some good companies that sell animal control supplies and traps include ACES and Wildlife Control Supplies. For traps, you can also go directly to the company. Good quality trap brands include TruCatch, Tomahawk and Safeguard.

If you need to find a trap quickly, you can also try hardware stores or feed and grain stores. Most often these will have Havahart traps, which are okay. I'm not a fan of the Easy Set or the Two Door Havahart Traps though as I see more cats escape these. I also do not suggest buying cheap traps from Tractor Supply or Harbor Freight. If the trap material is flimsy, a dog or cat may escape and/or injure themselves.

Visit the Lost Pet Research Store

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Security Cameras: one of the best tools for finding escaped indoor cats

Danielle Robertson — Sun, 20 Nov 2022 21:10:22 +0000

Some of the most effective methods for finding an escaped indoor cat include: security cameras, trail cameras, humane cat traps, physical searches, search dogs, flyers distributed door-to-door and well-designed posters. I recommend using all these techniques, but if I could only use one tool, I would use security cameras.

Continue reading to learn:

Why security cameras are so effective for finding escaped indoor cats
My favorite cameras and those used by other pet detectives
Tips for setting up security cameras to maximize the chances of getting your cat on camera
How to catch your cat after getting them on camera

Table of Contents

Why Security Cameras are so Effective

Selecting a Security Camera

My Favorite Security Cameras

Tips on Using Security Cameras

Example of Effective Camera Set Up

How to Catch your Cat with a Camera

Why Security Cameras are so Effective

Many escaped indoor cats will return home but they rarely meow at the door or wait to be found
Returning home is most common in the middle of the night
Any human activity outside can easily scare the lost cat away
Some cats return home soon but others take days to weeks to first appear

When an indoor cat escapes outside they often enter "Survival Mode" where they hide in silence (even when they hear the calls of their family) and often only come out at night. This behavior can make it seem like they have vanished and zero sightings for a week or longer are not uncommon. Sadly many people give up assuming that their cat is no longer around. However, if you use effective search methods, the recovery rate for lost indoor cats is high (60-80%).

Escaped indoor cats will often try to return home, but usually in the middle of the night. My past research showed that 30% of indoor cats attempted to return home, but with the increased use of security cameras, I now suspect that number is closer to 50% or higher. (I will be updating my case statistics soon and will publish the actual number.)

Some cats attempt to return home as early as the first night, but nights 4 - 7 are most common. Other cats may take as long as 10 days to 2 weeks to first show up. And some cats are still around and attempting to return home months later. For this reason, I recommend putting up security cameras as soon as possible and keeping them up for at least two months.

Unfortunately, any human activity outside can prevent the lost cat from coming home or scare them away. Many people unwittingly sabotage finding their lost cat by searching outside all night long often night after night. Since most indoor cats are in Survival Mode, a security camera combined with a "House Trap" or humane cat trap is most effective.

Selecting a Security Camera

I recommend getting outdoor cameras that are infrared, water resistant, and motion activated. Wireless wifi cameras are often easiest to set up, but only work within your wifi range. Cellular security cameras are another option, but are more expensive and require a monthly service plan. In either case, you want a camera that will record video and send motion notifications to your phone.

My Favorite Security Cameras

The Blink cameras are my favorite security cameras. I have used the Blink XT and XT2 cameras since 2019, and I just purchased the Blink Outdoor. They work with the Blink App, which will send a notification to your phone when any motion is detected. They also offer a live video feed on request.

Blink XT2 camera with twist mount for easy installation

In my lost pet recovery business I usually use at least 2 Blink cameras around the house. Then I use at least one trail camera (preferably cellular) to monitor the yard and/or for checking sightings away from home. For catching the lost cat, I usually use either a House Trap and/or humane cat trap.

The Blink Outdoor cameras are available on Amazon.com and Best Buy. I also really like these flexible twist mounts that allow easy installation in a variety of locations. If you are on a tight budget, the Wyze Cam v3 is another option. This camera is wired, but still weather resistant.

No products found.

Other security cameras preferred by some pet detectives include Arlo and Reolink. Both of these offer wifi and cellular options.

Tips on Using Security Cameras

Security cameras work best when placed above and angled down. This way they are less likely to scare your cat when the camera comes on.
If monitoring an entrance, make sure that you can clearly see the steps and/or doorway. Some cats will sneak along the house to the entrance so you may miss them if the camera is facing too far outwards.
Place one camera near the point of escape. I recommend getting at least two cameras. Other good locations are the door most frequently used by everyone. This will have the most scent. Or a back door to a deck or porch. This is often a quieter location with less human activity.
Monitoring the garage door is another option. If left open a foot or so, many cats will enter the safety of the garage. This method works best with a humane trap in the garage or a door open into the house. Don't close the garage door as a trap! This rarely works and your cat could be injured or killed.
Cameras can also be used to monitor a humane trap. Monitoring a humane trap makes trapping safer and increases your chances of successfully catching your cat.
Turn off all outdoor lights including motion activated lights. Most indoor cats prefer to travel in the dark.
Make sure that the camera is set to a high enough sensitivity that it will pick up a cat-sized animal. I find a sensitivity of 7 or higher works well on Blink cameras, but this may vary based on temperature and weather. I recommend testing yours once set up.
Security cameras are less likely to detect movement if it comes head on. Angle your camera across the entrance for the greatest chance of detection.

Example of Effective Camera Set Up

This Blink camera is attached below a security light using a flexible twist mount. The camera covers the sidewalk, stairs and landing to get the best chance of catching the escaped indoor cat on their return.

How to Catch your Cat with a Camera

Just knowing that your cat is around is great, but if you rush outside when you see your cat, you will likely scare them away. Some people have luck by slowly opening the door, sitting down and using calming signals to attract their cat.

However, many cats will run away as soon as the door is opened. Leaving the door open is often the most effective method to quickly catch an escaped indoor cat. Of course, don't do this unless it is safe to do so and you won't risk losing any other pets. This method is even more effective if you design a House Trap where you can close the door remotely after your cat has entered. If you do this, be sure to test the lag time on the video. You want to be 100% sure that your cat is far enough inside before attempting to close the door.

If you can't leave your door open, a humane cat trap or drop trap are your best options. Make sure that you learn how to safely and effectively use a humane cat trap. For additional help, check out the resources available in the Lost Pet Research Store.

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How to Keep Your Pets Safe from Coyote Attacks

Danielle Robertson — Sun, 09 Feb 2020 23:41:57 +0000

If you live in an area where the risk of coyote attacks on pets is high, you'll definitely want to check out these research-based tips on how to keep your pets safe. Even if you live in an area where attacks are relatively rare, you may want to take a quick look. Any risk may be too much when it comes to the safety of our dogs and cats.

1. Avoid Letting Pets Outside at Night

Coyotes are more active at night, especially in suburban and urban areas. Obviously, the safest action is to never let your cats outside and only let small dogs outside under supervision. If you do let your dogs or cats outside, avoid doing so from dusk until dawn. In California, 70% of attacks on dogs were between 7pm to 7am with the highest incidence between 9pm to 11pm. Similarly, in Arizona, the majority (78%) of attacks on cats were between 10pm and 5am.

If you need to take your small dog outside at night, do so on a short leash. Coyotes may still attack small dogs in the presence of people, but attacks of dogs on-leash are rare (only 0.8% of attacks in Denver, CO).

Be extra careful with older dogs, especially those going deaf or blind. Even if you have been letting them outside at night for most of their life, they can become disoriented and may wander off (from an unfenced yard). If you find a senior dog has disappeared, this does not necessarily mean that they were killed by a coyote. Many senior dogs can be found.

2. Don't Leave Your Dogs Alone in a Fenced Yard

Don’t leave your dog outside alone even within a fenced yard, especially dogs under 25 lbs. Coyotes can easily jump over typical 4-5 foot wood or chain link fences. They can even climb over 6 foot high privacy fences and 10 foot high privacy walls (more common in the southwest). In southern California, 81% of attacks were on small dogs less than 22 lbs. Most (76%) of these attacks took place while the dogs were off-leash in a backyard with a 6-10 foot fence. In Denver, 20% of coyote attacks on pets were in a fenced yard and another 46% were near a house.

3. Be More Careful During Coyote Pup Rearing Season

Contrary to popular belief, more coyote attacks occur during pup rearing season rather than breeding season. Pup rearing season starts in April or May and runs through August. During this time, coyotes require more food to raise their pups and attacks on small dogs and cats may increase. Coyotes may also attack larger dogs when defending their den/pups.

4. Don't Let Your Dog Run Off-Leash in the Woods or Open Spaces

If your dog doesn’t stay close to you when off-leash, there is a greater danger that they could run into a pack of coyotes. During mating season, coyotes MIGHT be more territorial, and during pup rearing season, they MAY defend their den or pups. Overall attacks on unleashed dogs running loose are relatively low. In Denver, only 5.3% of reported attacks were on off-leash dogs.

5. Don't Feed or Attract Coyotes to your Yard

Coyotes that regularly eat human food are more likely to have conflicts with humans or pets. Make sure that you aren't attracting coyotes to your yard or unintentionally feeding them.

Common sources of food include:

Trash - Don't leave unsecured trash out, especially overnight.
Pet Food - Don't leave pet food outside, especially overnight. If you feed feral cats, only put food out during the day.
Fruit - If you have fruit trees, pick up any fallen fruit. You might not think it, but coyotes love fruit.
Compost - Use composting bins rather than piles, and don't include animal waste, meat, milk or eggs.
Rodents and Rabbits - These are common prey items for coyotes. If you feed or attract them to your yard, you may also attract coyotes. Gardens and bird feeders may provide food for rodents or rabbits. Thick bushes or vegetation in your yard may also provide good living habitat for them.

Learn More About Risk of Coyote Attacks on Pets

To learn more, check out these articles:

The post How to Keep Your Pets Safe from Coyote Attacks appeared first on Lost Pet Research and Recovery.

Coyotes are NOT More Dangerous During Breeding Season

Danielle Robertson — Tue, 04 Feb 2020 14:23:40 +0000

For a more in depth discussion, see "Do Coyote Attacks Increase During Mating Season."

Please help spread the truth that coyotes are not more dangerous during breeding season

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Share to Facebook or Twitter. You even have my permission to save and download a copy of the infographic. Just please link back to this page if you use it on your website.

Literature Researched

Frauenthal, VM, P Bergman, and RJ Murtaugh. 2017. Retrospective evaluation of coyote attacks in dogs: 154 cases (1997-2012). Journal of Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care 27(3): 333-341.

Gehrt, S and SPD Riley. 2010. “Coyotes (Canis Latrans)” in Urban Carnivores: Ecology, Conflict, and Conservation. Gehrt, Stanley, D., Seth P.D. Riley, and Brian L. Cypher, editors. The John Hopkins University Press.

Grubbs, S and PR Krausman. 2009. Observations of Coyote-Cat Interactions. Journal of Wildlife Management 73(5): 683-685. See full notes here.

Lukasik, VM and SM Alexander. 2011. Human-Coyote Interactions in Calgary, Alberta. Human Dimensions in Wildlife 16: 114-127.

Poessel, SA, SW Breck, TL Teel, S Shwiff, KR Crooks, and L Angeloni. 2013. Patterns of Human-Coyote Conflicts in the Denver Metropolitan Area. Journal of Wildlife Management 77(2): 297-305.

White, LA and SD Gehrt. 2009. Coyote Attacks on Humans in the United States and Canada. Human Dimensions of Wildlife 14: 419-432.

The post Coyotes are NOT More Dangerous During Breeding Season appeared first on Lost Pet Research and Recovery.

Do Coyote Attacks Increase During Mating Season?

Danielle Robertson — Tue, 28 Jan 2020 16:49:27 +0000

It’s that time of year again, and the coyote mating meme is making the rounds on Facebook. But ARE coyote attacks on pets really more common during mating season? In case you are not familiar, the coyote mating meme states: “WARNING! The next 4-6 weeks is mating season for coyotes. Please do NOT let your dogs, or cats out alone. The outcome can be tragic as they can and will attack your pets. (Coyote breeding typically peaks in late February, and early March.) Male coyotes can become more aggressive during this time of year.” In this article, I’m going to review the existing scientific research and determine if it supports that coyotes are more dangerous during the mating season.

If you don't have time to read the full article, check out the infographic. Feel free to download and share to help spread the word.

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When is Coyote Mating Season?

The coyote mating meme generally states that coyote mating or breeding season lasts 4-6 weeks and peeks in late February to early March. Coyote researchers generally classify January through April as the mating season, May through August as pup rearing and September through December as dispersal. (Dispersal is when young coyotes leave the pack to find their own territory.) Coyote breeding season may vary by a month or so depending on the geographic location of the coyotes. For example in Massachusetts, mating season is late December to March. Researchers don't mention a "peak" to the breeding season. Most likely it varies each year depending on weather, prey abundance and other factors.

Why Coyote Attacks Might Increase During Mating Season

Coyote attacks on pets might increase during the mating season when coyotes are more territorial. However, male coyotes in particular are not more aggressive. All coyotes in a pack may defend their territory. Territorial attacks would hypothetically be more likely on medium to large dogs that coyotes saw as more of a threat.

Food can be harder to find during the winter. Coyote attacks might also increase if coyotes are traveling into urban/suburban areas looking for easier to obtain food. In this case, we could expect predatory attacks on small dogs and cats.

What Does the Research Show?

Overall, researchers found that seasonality was not a good predictor of coyote attacks. More studies found that coyote attacks increased during the pup rearing season rather than the breeding season. However, no reported results were statistically significant.

Figure 1: Percentage of Coyote Attacks by Season

Breeding Season = Jan - April, Pup Rearing Season = May - Aug, Dispersal = Sept - Dec

AB = Attacks on people or pets in Calgary, Alberta (Lukasik and Alexander 2011), CO = Attacks on people or pets in Denver, Colorado (Poessel et al. 2013), CA = Attacks on dogs in southern California (Frauenthal et al. 2017), AZ = Attacks on cats in Tucson, Arizona (Grubbs and Krausman 2009), US and CAN = Attacks on people in the US and Canada (White and Gehrt 2009)

Researchers Concluded that More Coyote Attacks Occur During ...

Mating Season

In Denver, CO, most coyote conflicts took place in December through February. Coyote attacks on pets were 1.5 times more likely during breeding season. (Poessel et al. 2013)

In Chicago, IL, most attacks on dogs took place in December through February (mating season) with another peak in April (when pups were born). Attacks on larger dogs usually involved two or more coyotes and mostly occurred during mating season. (Gehrt and Riley 2010).

Pup Rearing Season

In Calgary, Alberta, most coyote attacks on pets were during the pup rearing season and the least were during the breeding season. (Lukasik and Alexander 2011)

In southern CA, there were nearly twice as many attacks on dogs during July. Most dogs in this study (81%) were less than 22 lbs. (Frauenthal et al. 2017)

In Tucson, AZ, most attacks on cats were during the pup rearing season. (Grubbs and Krausman 2009)

In the US and Canada, most attacks on humans were during the pup rearing season. (White and Gehrt 2009)

However, no reported results were statistically significant.

Conclusion: Is the Coyote Mating Meme True?

The existing research does not support the coyote mating meme. Overall, seasonality was not a good predictor of coyote attacks. More research studies found that coyote attacks on pets increased during the pup rearing season (May-Aug) rather than the mating season (Jan-April).

Why Coyote Attacks Might Increase During Pup Rearing Season

More research studies found that coyote attacks on pets increased during the pup rearing season rather than the breeding season. Attacks on pets might increase during pup rearing due to the need for more food for the pups and coyotes protecting dens and/or pups. In this case, we would expect to see more predatory attacks on small dogs and cats. Attacks on medium to large dogs would be more likely where the dog approached a coyote den.

Why the Coyote Mating Meme May Have Been Created

Just seeing coyotes may increase the perception that there is increased danger. Several studies reported that sightings of coyotes were highest during mating season. In the winter, coyotes are often more visible, especially in areas with snow. Coyotes also tend to travel more extensively in winter. These increased sightings (and not increased attacks) may be the reason why the mating meme was created.

Figure 2: Percentage of Coyote Sightings by Season

Breeding Season = Jan - April, Pup Rearing Season = May - Aug, Dispersal = Sept - Dec

AB = Attacks on people or pets in Calgary, Alberta (Lukasik and Alexander 2011), CO = Attacks on people or pets in Denver, Colorado (Poessel et al. 2013)

Overall, Coyote Attacks are Relatively Rare

It is important to understand that coyote attacks or aggressive behavior are not common in most areas of the US or Canada. In Denver, only 12.7% of reports were described as conflicts, and in Calgary (Alberta), only 5% of reports involved aggression or attacks. In both studies, the vast majority of reported "incidents" were just sightings: 89% in Calgary, Alberta and 75% in Denver, Colorado.

Figure 3: Coyote Incident Reports in Alberta

Attacks on people or pets in Calgary, Alberta (Lukasik and Alexander 2011)

Figure 4: Coyote Incident Reports in Colorado

Attacks on people or pets in Denver, Colorado (Poessel et al. 2013)

As a species, coyotes pose a relatively low threat to human and pet safety, and conflict is likely limited to specific individuals in the population. Seasonality is less important than other factors (Lukasik and Alexander 2011). Coyotes that are more likely to pose a threat are sick or injured coyotes or those habituated to eating human food (e.g. garbage or pet food).

Keeping Pets Safe from Coyote Attacks

The results of these research studies provide some good tips for keeping pets safe from coyote attacks.

Don’t let small dogs outside alone even within a fenced yard. In southern California, 81% of attacks were on small dogs less than 22 lbs. Most (76%) of attacks took place while the dogs were off-leash in a backyard with a 6-10 foot fence.
Don’t let cats or small dogs outside alone at night. Obviously, the safest action is to never let your small dogs or cats outside, unsupervised. But if you do, avoid doing so from dusk until dawn. In California, 70% of attacks on dogs were between 7pm to 7am with the highest incidence between 9pm to 11pm. Similarly, in Arizona, the majority (78%) of attacks on cats were between 10pm and 5am.
Don’t let dogs run off-leash in the woods, especially during winter or spring. If your dog doesn’t stay close to you when off-leash, there is a greater danger that they could run into a pack of coyotes. During mating season, coyotes MIGHT be more territorial, and during pup rearing season, they MAY defend their den or pups.
Lastly, don’t leave out food or unsecured garbage, especially at night. Coyotes that regularly eat human food are more likely to have conflicts with humans or pets.

Where to learn more about coyote behavior

Keep in mind that in many areas, coyote attacks on pets are not nearly as common as people tend to assume. In particular, many cases of missing (and never found) cats are blamed on coyotes without any evidence. However, in some areas of North America, coyote attacks are more common. To learn more, check out these articles:

Some coyote behaviors are often misinterpreted as dangerous. Coyotes may stare at or follow people or pets, and this is not necessarily aggressive behavior. Another version of the coyote mating meme states that coyotes will lure dogs back to the pack to kill them. This is another myth. Check out this article to learn more.

Literature Cited and Research Study Summaries

Frauenthal, VM, P Bergman, and RJ Murtaugh. 2017. Retrospective evaluation of coyote attacks in dogs: 154 cases (1997-2012). Journal of Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care 27(3): 333-341.

Study conducted from 1997-2012 in southern California
154 dog attacks were witnessed
15.6% of dogs died or were euthanized due to injuries
Size of dogs attacked:
- 81% of dogs attacked were less than 22 lbs
- Average weight of dogs in the study was 13 lbs
Seasonality of attacks:
- Attacks occurred throughout the year
- Nearly 2x as many attacks in July (pup rearing season)
Time of attacks:
- 70.3% of attacks occurred from 7pm to 7am
- Most common time of attacks 9pm – 11pm
Location of attacks:
- 76.3% were off leash in the backyard
- Many yards had a 6-10-foot fence, which the coyote jumped over

Study in Chicago, Illinois, 1990-2004
Based on 70 newspaper articles of coyote attacks on dogs
60% of attacks were on small breed dogs
Coyote attacks on dogs peaked in December – February (mating season) and again in April (pup rearing season)
Attacks on larger dogs usually involved two or more coyotes and mostly occurred during mating season, when coyotes are most territorial
Attacks on small dogs were likely to occur at any time of the year

Grubbs, S and PR Krausman. 2009. Observations of Coyote-Cat Interactions. Journal of Wildlife Management 73(5): 683-685. See full notes here.

78% of coyote-cat interactions took place between 10pm - 5am
84% of cats were killed between 6pm - 5am
69% of attacks and 68% of cats killed were during pup rearing season (May-Aug)
8% of attacks and 16% of cats killed were during coyote breeding season (Jan-April)

Lukasik, VM and SM Alexander. 2011. Human-Coyote Interactions in Calgary, Alberta. Human Dimensions in Wildlife 16: 114-127.

Study conducted from 2005-2008 in Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Based on 1,684 incident reports
89% of reports were coyote sightings
5% of reports were aggression or attacks
Reported incidents may involve humans and/or pets
Seasonality of incidents:
- Most sightings were during the breeding season and least during pup rearing
- Most attacks were during the pup rearing season and least during the breeding season
Most often reported near a river and in central Calgary

Poessel, SA, SW Breck, TL Teel, S Shwiff, KR Crooks, and L Angeloni. 2013. Patterns of Human-Coyote Conflicts in the Denver Metropolitan Area. Journal of Wildlife Management 77(2): 297-305.

Study conducted from 2003-2010 in Denver, CO
Based on 4,006 incident reports to the government, mostly from citizens
87.3% were coyote observations and 12.7% were conflicts (e.g. aggression or attacks)
92.4% of conflicts were attacks on pets
2.5% of conflicts were attacks on humans and 46.1% of those also included a pet
76.1% were coyote attacks on dogs and 21.9% were on cats
Locations of attacks on pets:
- 45.8% near a house
- 20.2% in fenced yard
- 5.3% were dogs off leash
- 0.8% were dogs on leash
Seasonality of coyote conflicts and observations:
- Observations were 2x as common from December – March
- Conflicts were 1.5x more likely during December – February
Habitat type of conflicts:
- More common in development and open space land
- Less common in natural and agricultural areas
- More common in suburban areas
- Less common in rural and exurban areas
Hypotheses for increased attacks during winter:
- Coyotes frequent developed areas more often in winter in search of easier to obtain food
- Coyotes are more aggressive and territorial during breeding season
- During short winter days, people are more active, especially walking dogs, at dusk and dawn when coyotes are also more active

White, LA and SD Gehrt. 2009. Coyote Attacks on Humans in the United States and Canada. Human Dimensions of Wildlife 14: 419-432.

In the US and Canada, most attacks on humans were during the pup rearing season, but the results were not statistically significant.

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