Recommended Lost Pet Search Equipment

Flashlight

This is my number one search tool that I always carry on a lost cat search and most lost dog searches.  My favorite flashlight so far is by Feit Electric.  I have an older model of the one shown here.  In general I recommend any flashlight with at least 500 lumens, a sliding zoom lens, good battery life, and easy to replace batteries (not specialty batteries).

Knee Pads

I wish that I bought these years ago.  When looking for a lost cat, you need to get down on the ground a lot to conduct an effective search.  Most often, I only wear one pad on my dominant knee since I find them a little uncomfortable for walking.  I think the ones that I own are from Home Depot or Lowes and look similar to these, but only have one strap.

Digital Camera and/or Cell Phone

I always carry a small digital camera.  I use this to search in tight places for hiding cats or dogs.  This usually involves sticking my hand in small dark holes and snapping a few pictures.  Some people use their cell phone instead to take photos or video, but I find my old camera easier to use.  I also use my digital camera to take photos of any animal sightings (with the 10x optical zoom) and to check photos on my SD card wildlife cameras.  

Borescope or Inspection Camera

I almost always carry my borescope, but I only use it after first trying to search with my flashlight and digital camera.  The small screen makes it difficult to see hiding animals clearly unless you can catch their eye shine.  It is most useful for checking in holes, in walls, and under sheds (close to the ground).

The borescope that I purchased in 2018 is no longer available, but for my next model, I plan to buy one with a shorter (perhaps 3-6 foot) rigid cable like this one.  The 10-foot cable that I have is too long and not rigid enough after extended more than 3-4 feet.  Most of the ones that attach to cell cameras have flimsy cables that aren't much use.

Capture Net

I rarely carry a net with me, but always keep one or more in my car.  These are most often used for lost cats that are found hiding in an enclosed space.  Usually I prefer to have the owner lure the cat out or set a humane cat trap and camera.  However, if the cat is in a space where they are unlikely to escape or run away, I will use a net.

My primary net is a folding net like the one pictured here.  But my net is from ACES with a 17" depth and (presumably) higher quality netting.  I also recently purchased a Humaniac Cage Net, but haven't used it yet.

I usually have the owner bring a towel or small blanket on the search.  In most cases, I have used this for carrying a found cat and not a net or carrier.

Animal Handling Gloves

When handling an animal in a net, I always wear animal handling gloves.  I bought my gloves from ACES and they look similar to these.  This design provides protection but also still allows dexterity.  

Snappy Snare

I own a Snappy Snare, but have never used it.  Whenever I've been close enough to a loose dog to use one, I've never had it on me.  However, I'm including it on this list because many dog trappers swear by them.  

Security Cameras

This is my number one tool for finding escaped indoor cats.  Learn more here.  My favorite are the Blink Outdoor cameras (pictured).  I also like the Wyze v3 camera if you are on a budget.  Other pet detectives prefer Ring, Reolink or Arlo.  

Most of these cameras can be purchased as wifi or cellular versions.  The cellular security cameras are usually best for use in lost dog trapping (where wifi is not available).

Cellular Wildlife Cameras

I use cellular wildlife cameras for monitoring humane traps for cats and dogs.  Trapping is much safer and more successful with live monitoring of the trap.  They are also useful for checking potential sightings.

I use the Ridgetec Lookout and Browning Wireless Defender Pro Scout.  I also like the SpyPoint Link Micro if you are on a budget.  

Since wildlife cameras are always changing, I suggest checking TrailCamPro.com for the newest reviews and recommendations.  Cameras purchased from TrailCamPro include a 2-year warranty and 90-day returns. 

SD Card Wildlife Cameras

Some people might argue that SD card cameras are no longer useful.  However, I find that good quality SD card cameras are less likely to miss taking photos/video of a lost cat or small dog than similar priced wifi or cellular security cameras.  So I often like to use an SD card camera in addition to make sure that I'm not missing anything important.  They are also still useful in areas without cellular service.

My favorite SD card cameras are Browning cameras.  I recommend selecting a camera with a blackout or black flash.  A built in cable lock attachment is also a good choice.

Since wildlife cameras are always changing, I suggest checking TrailCamPro.com for the newest reviews and recommendations.  Cameras purchased from TrailCamPro include a 2-year warranty and 90-day returns. 

Wildlife Camera Accessories

Most cameras require an SD card or microSD card, which is sometimes included.  If you have old SD cards lying around, these may not work with cellular cameras.  You may also need a card reader for your phone or computer.  

For security purposes, I recommend getting a good python cable lock.  I usually buy them in a pack so they all have the same key.  Some of the cheaper cameras are not compatible with a cable lock.  

Good quality batteries like Energizer Ultimate Lithium will make your camera last longer.  With lower quality batteries, some cameras may stop taking and/or transmitting photos when the batteries fall below 50% power.

Humane Trapping Equipment

I primarily work escaped indoor cat and skittish lost dog cases, so trapping is a large part of my business.  Good quality trap brands include TruCatch, Tomahawk and Safeguard.  Havahart is okay if you need  to find a trap quickly.  I recommend avoiding the cheaper traps such as those at Tractor Supply or Harbor Freight.  

Humane Cat Traps

For cats, I prefer larger cage traps with sliding rear doors.  I have a slight preference for gravity drop doors over spring-loaded.  When trapping cats, it's also best to go with a trap that is designed specifically for cats.  TruCatch and some Tomahawk traps (Neighborhood Cats and FixNation) are designed with a larger trip plate which is harder for cats to step over.

My favorites cat traps are TruCatch 36D and Fat Cat.  However, Tomahawk has a new design gravity door trap that might be even better: GT606 Neighborhood Cats Gravity Trap. I own several of the Humane Way Cat Traps.  They are good for smaller cats (less than 12 lbs), but are lower quality traps.

For more information on finding and selecting a trap, check out my articles on Best Humane Cat Traps.

Humane Dog Traps

For dog traps, I prefer Tomahawk and Safeguard traps.  The larger TruCatch traps have a known "door bounce" issue that sometimes allows dogs to escape.  

One trap that I really like is the Safeguard Large Dog Trap or Tomahawk 610C.  These traps are 72" long and will catch most dogs.  Tomahawk also offers a folding version if you can't fit the rigid model in your car.

If you are on a budget or need to get a dog trap, the Humane Way dog trap is okay.  I've used several and they have worked fine.  The trap quality is inferior to others and is susceptible to damage over time.  I definitely do NOT recommend the CountyLine large trap available at Tractor Supply.

For more information on finding and selecting dog traps, check out my article on Best Humane Dog Traps.

Specialty Traps

For hard-to-trap cats, I find a drop trap is invaluable.  I have a nice wooden one from Alley Cat Allies, and you can find similar designs on the Drop Trap Design Bank.  I also own a metal drop trap from Tomahawk that I like.  That one comes with the option of a remote trigger.

For hard-to-trap dogs I usually use a custom made enclosure trap.  As a last resort I have a Collarum.  

Motion Alarms for Trapping

Monitoring the trap with a cellular or wifi camera is the best option if you can't do so in person.  The second best option is to alarm the trap using a motion alarm or driveway alarm.  

The actual range of the driveway alarm is often far less than the advertised range.  Unless you are trapping right outside your house, I recommend getting one with at least a 1/2 mile signal range.  I still use the Chamberlain Motion Alarm, but these have been discontinued.